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Re: ** So my clutch has just "gone" - HELP ** Doubtful - If there was a cable problem it would be apparent with the pedal "feel" and "Position" at rest. Have you noticed the car losing oil?

As far as I'm aware you simply need to send the ECM to somewhere like ECU-Testing to have the Imobiliser code removed... then wire it up and watch it go. Mick

So its had x3 sets of plugs in 57k.... that's a touch much IMO as a proper set of Champion plugs should last 72k Assuming the correct plugs have been used and that there's nothing obviously wrong with the leads I'd say compression test the lump and come back with the readings. Mick

I'll gladly offer my services but i'd need your full address details to be able to price up the callout charge... to be honest, due to the distance, I'd proberbly do a job like this on a fixed fee rather than charge by the hour. If you're interested drop me an email via my website contact form...

Re: ** So my clutch has just "gone" - HELP ** If you're having a new clutch you'd be silly not to have a new cable fitted at the same time... they're only £18 +VAT from Renault so not the end of the world. Get the crank shaft oil seal inspected/replaced also. Mick

If it was my car I wouldn't be planning any kind of journey in it with a problem like this. Get it looked at properly; one of my customers had a Megane 16v which wasn't running quite right and several garages had taken a look at it all with differing diagnosis's from H02 sensors, blocked CAT's...

My Scenic seemed loud when I first got it to. After I changed the belt it was a lot quieter and it seemed to have a bit more mid-range to. I've currently got Judes Clio in for some repairs to the cylinder head after the previous owner killed the thread on plug No.3 which needs fixing as well...

Re: FRED, DANNY etc *HELP* Pass side shaft Boot replaced and still leaking gearbox o It is sometimes possible to incorrectly seal the gearbox when changing this shaft. I find the trick is to do up x3 13mm bolts finger tight then spin the gaiter by hand a few times before finally putting...

Where are you from? Get it booked in with one of the many specialists on here then gal... sounds to me like there's a few issues which have come about from poor servicing & maintenance the cars past. Don't let these faults put you off these cars as they're amazing fun when in perfect working...

Right, as you can here the fuel pump relay actuating, assuming of course you are checking the actual fuel pump relay and not the main control or A/C relay, it is unlikely to be an Imobiliser issue as the UCH/ECM will not normally activate these components unless the security checksum has been...

I'm pretty sure Mike @ Rentec has full Clip capability which can and does do live data. If you've got an ABS fault though a generic code reader from eBay or similar won't be of any use to you as it won't connect to that system. I'd offer my services as i'm mobile but the callout charge to...

Hey George - Give me a call if you'd like me to pop over and take a look... I'm mobile so can come to you and i've done a fair few cars on here now to (I've got Judes Clio in at the minute). Mick

As above you need to confirm the injectors are all getting a good +12v. If they are you need to check the control lines that hte ECM uses to earth them out. Normally, this is where a scope comes in but failing that you can continuity test the lines from each injector back to the ECM. I'm willing...

When I go out on my road bike I wear Hi Vis clothing which makes me stand out a fair bit... doesn't stop people pulling out on me and saying "Sorry, didn't see you"

That's becuase all new cars seem to be coming out with daytime run lamps or the stupid LED lamps that all the chavs seem to be retro-fitting to make their Corsa look more Audi... maybe its a new EU wanker type approval directive? I've been asked to enable this feature on a few cars recently...

In all fairness it can take a while as unless the fault is obvious there is a lot of wiring to look thru and most of it is hidden under loom tape and plastic. First thing that NEEDS to be checked is the operation of the main control relays

I'd need a few more digits from the info plate to be 100% sure on exactly which engine is fitter but the CB0A Clio II is indeed a D7F... proberbly a '720 or '730 and yes, that kit will still be okay. Mick

Either or will do... it starts VF1XXXXXXXXXXXXX. You need the next four characters after the '1'

If it's a DIET 1.2 8v it'll be, depending on vehicle, as '98 was a crossover year: Clio I, Ph3 - D7F-730 Clio II, Ph1 - D7F-720, 726, 744 or 764

No special tools required for the D7F-730 timing as there are nice and clear timing marks though its been a while since i've touched one myself. From memory the D7F cam pulley has two marks on it on two teeth next to each other; one's a semi circle and the other is a notch... from memory the...

There are NO timing marks on the F4R 2.0 16v engine... it's totally keyless and requires the use of specific locking tools to correctly set and pin the timing. Timing can be confirmed as being correct/incorrect by eye if the person doing it knows what they're looking at as posted above; pin...

I use a local engine builder and pay around £5 per unit. Just remember that the inlet and exhaust valves are not the same... enjoy the lapping process and fidling with the collets. Mick

nagh the plastic body goes brittle over time and cracks which results in it falling away from the bearing unit... pretty common failure on over due idlers as the belts rarely snap. Of course, if it was overly tight it would cause a similar failure but how anyone could get the belt tension wrong...

First thing to check if it's a Clio II is the main control relay in the passenger wing as these can die resulting in no power issues. Then, as above, either yourself or an auto-spark will need to test the loom for continuity and repair/replace if required. I do this alot! Mick

I like the look of W8... some really good ideas in there.

I'm only 20mins from Swadlincote to ;)

Yep, still £165 with the VAT and they claim its for the K4R engine to... talk about know your products! They can be had from the dealers for less if you ask as most will give you 10%

Needs plugging in to say for sure but I'd guess either and H02 or a possible throttle body fault; start by removing the TB and giving it a bloody good clean

Damn, that is bad news. I've only ever seen a re-flashed ECM fail once before and that was on a Megane 16v as the idiot tripped the anit-tamper. Have you got any come back from the people that updated the map for you?

Where are you based mate? It could be the starter motor but it could also be a simple case of the wire to the solenoid being in poor condition... needs looking at by someone in the know really though. Mick