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The earth wire is bolted to the inner bodywork and you will need to remove the inner liner to get at it i'm afraid. If you have a multi-meter handy put the lights on in turn and check for the pressence of +12v at the multiplug to as it could even be a bulb holder fault. Mick

Who did the belts... any paperwork/waranty? Deffo sounds like dephaser pulley and its an easy enough check: Camshaft endcaps out, top timing cover off, check for play in inlet cam. Mick

It depends on what the diagnostic session shows... could be a pedal track at fault or even a wiring issue between the pedal potentiometer and the TB itself. Step 1 - Proper diagnostics required and go from there buddy. Mick

What year is the vehicle? If it's a phase 1 it'll be a cable actuated throttle body and the TPS will be bolted to the side. Technically you are not supposed to remove them from the TB assembly as they're factory set but you can get away with it on these models without any real effect to the...

@Iceberg I can't comment on that Iceberg as I'm not a performance tuner and my experience with such things is limited... I just fix em right and keep em running right I'm afraid. I'm guessing that the vernier assembly will bolt to the cam in the normal way (With a modified inlet camshaft oil...

That's how its always been done in touring cars J. Sling the engine right back, alter the suspension geometry and mounting points... all for better balance and weight distribution. I've got loads of pictures of the WTCE Lagunas as I had to alter my RDR 19 setup to allow an engine to be...

TBH its not rocket science and I share your frustrations but the process is the process which is there for a reason and when, which is normally the case around here at least, people think they can cut corners and circumvent the process without any come backs it always does come back and clears...

As above, the light you are seeing is the electrical fault warning light so there will be a fault with either a component or the wiring somewhere. Putting it on a "Clip" or similar equipment will not necessarily detect/diagnose this issue and it needs looking at by someone with an electrical...

Nice to see something different built without compromise but still sad that a WTCE chassis had to die to create it. I've not read the original story but is there any mention of which chassis and build was used as WTCE produced a few variants? Looks like the last of the run going on the Sodemo...

School boy error...

Yes this is correct and I'm guessing you are doing it without the aid of any of the required locking tools? The F4R is a keyless sprocket setup so no woodrough keys or timing marks are provided by Renault as the timing is set and locked by means of three very specific pieces of equipment...

You can buy the adjuster kits from Renault for around £25-30 but I promise you now they will want to know what rear brake setup you have, Bosch or Lucas (Girling or TRW) and the only way you'll know is to look at them i'm afraid. Mick

Yes and no... its not hard but you'll need to remove the upper heat shielding and to do that you're gonna have to remove a lot of the inlet plenum, faff about with some 10mm bolts that will most likely be corroded then you're going to need an HO2 socket to remove it as you're not gonna get a...

The Laguna II F4P/R inlet plenum and TB setup won't fit the K4M as the center to center dimensions are different - F4R conversion for the win though. I'd love a Dacia Logan Rally rep... Even the Cup cars look pretty mint

Exhaust manifold... right in the top.

Could also be a broken wire in the flexible section of the boot loom.

How exactly have you wired the new fog lights? Don't spare on the details please.

Proberbly the level indicator wires catching the inner arch if they're left hanging. Front wheels off and have a look to see if you can find the pink wire swinging about. Tape up the end and the flickering warning light should stop. Mick

Sounds like a the rachet mech is worn then... a common failure on older vehicles. The Fix? A new pedal assembly from the dealer i'm afraid. There are rachet mech kits floating around on eBay but they're not worth it IMO and you have to faff about removing your current assembly, dismantling it...

Fek me Laine, you don't mess about do you... That's spent!

Head off, replace 2/4 bent valves, refit... Nice weekend DIY job that.

You need to start simple so: Check the battery has voltage. Check all connections, both +12v and earths are secure and intact. Check all fuses (Especially the 120A unit in the + battery terminal). If the above is ALL present and correct you will need to widen your search... normally the above...

Yeah I gave it a quick go thru the parts washer for you. I also ditched the 1" thick layer of silicone the previous mechanic used to stop the end caps and dephaser solenoid spewing oil everywhere before re-sealing the cam covers for you. I think you'll be very happy with it cos it flys once more ;)

There's only one pin required for the F4/F7 crank... Some people use an 8mm drill bit but they can snap as they're seriously weak at the base of the fluted section. The kit will contain two pins as, and i'm guessing here, the horse-shoe also fits the K4/K7 engines so i'm guessing the second pin...

There are cheap kits available on eBay containing a lock pin and camshaft locking horse-shoe which will do you fine for your needs but there's only a few places you're going to get the pulley locking tool from and that's AST/Renault.

Snap-On code readers of old, aka "Bricks", always used there own code system that had no cross reference to actual generic "P" codes... in short, they're useless! I also suspect the codes above are also about as much use as a chocolate fire guard. You really need the car looking at by someone...

CTS = Coolant Temp. Sensor

Here you go - Judes head from earlier: Time-sert kit: Standard thread after a clean: Repaired thread with time-sert:

As above, the head is not scrap yet. I'm just repairing Judes that did exactly this now... I've got to post some photos for him later as his timing belt was fitted incorrectly by the last muppet that worked on it so I'll stick some up of the repair I've done to. In short DO NOT use a...

Re: ** So my clutch has just "gone" - HELP ** +1 - Totally agree on both points here. Only fit the Valeo kit (LUK are alright but i've had a couple of faulty ones in the past so avoid them now to save doing the job twice) and the RenTec price of £375 fully supplied and fitted is for...