Search results

You will need the "differential circlip" as posted above as yours will have snapped.

Be VERY carefull using DDT as its not as good as you might think! It is a restricted piece of software for which I'm certain you don't have an agreement to use Legally). Its output isn't in any ODBII format so the codes are non-generic and so are the descriptions (Which are also in French so...

Yep, get it to an auto-spark rather than a "jack of all trades" garage. Could be a loom issue, component failing or a simple earth but don't throw good money after bad at it cos electrics can get expensive.

First things first - don't assume it's a buggered sensor... it most likely is but check the basics first to avoid killing the engine! Oil level - check it's okay Oil Pressure - Is it correct at cold start/hot idle? Oil Leaks - are there any major ones? The part itself is fairly cheap as its...

Either a bad earth somewhere or the connection to the starter solenoid isn't great. I'd say it'll be a bad earth connection if it waas fine prior to the battery being removed - check the battery terminals are all good and tight.

I just messed myself... hurry up and put a pic up of it with bump strips and skirts on Andy. Possibly my idea of a perfect '172 right here.

I think diagnostics should be next on your list... As Jonny said above in #2 - then you'll know exactly what is causing the MIL to be on in the first place

Okay, so you've checked the wiring under the seats and it didn't fix it. Stop faffing about with guesses and pulling at random wires... that's how accidental detonation can occur if you're not carefull! Just get it diagnosed properly as it can be done anywhere with decent kit for under £45 so...

Could be anything mate - needs to be up in the air really

P0136 - O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2) P0225 - TPS/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch C Circuit Malfunction P0115 - Engine Coolant Temp Circuit Malfunction Sounds like an in loom electrical problem or a bad earth to me. As above, check connections first for obvious signs of...

House of Kolor Kandy Red... ...I love it just not on that Clio.

I'm with Sky and find it hit and miss at times but generally not bad... for free!

Which plug - The three wires from the speedo sender has come out?

Chances of there being contamination are slim as fuel today is very clean but it should be checked to be on the safe side as they don't have an inline fuel filter setup anymore... it's all in-tank as posted above. TBH it needs to be seen by someone as guessing or attempting to diagnose without...

Burning torch one of em Danny? LoL

Most likely cause is a wiring fault or a faulty clockset... Are there any warning lights on and do you know if the vehicle is reporting a wheel speed for each wheel? Ideally the vehicle needs to be seen by someone that knows what they're on with and has access to decent diagnostic kit to make an...

Oil filter, air filter and cabin filter from Renault.... cough "Motrio"

That mystical wire to which you refer living under the seat is for airbag warning light issues not dipped head lamp ones. First of all what model and year Clio has she got? If the fuses are okay then chances are it'll be a relay/wiring fault but which one(s) will vary depending on age. Mick

Good to hear... As I said in the mail this morning, most so called "UCH Faults" are actually wiring faults and not UCH related ;) Mick

LoL - that's actually quite good that... Mr T style ITB conversion there. Would be interesting to see what kind of power it makes though.

Not seen a set of turbines in a while... very nice! Needs centre caps back on or a nice wheel stud/bolt conversion combo (IMO)

yeah it is possible the dephaser has decided to play silly beggars if it wasn't changed, but again it's best/fair to let Craig take a look.

It's really impossible to say buddy - most fail under load but equally the timing can "creep" or just totally "slip" at idle to which is why when changing them you need to be sure there are no oil leaks and that everything is thoroughly degreased prior to installation of the new setup. If it has...

Just another thought... and i'm not offering it as a diagnosis, just throwing it out there; was the dephaser pulley checked/changed as these *can* give poor idle, missfire like and metallic rattling noises as symptons.

I know Craig @ APD personally and whilst I've heard some people say his work isn't all its cracked up to be I've seen first hand how he rolls... he know the F4R well enough to time them correctly so agree, chances are its fine and not his fault. If he's far away then a Renault dealer can/should...

Sorry, I don't get why the A/C is such an "issue" though as its just an ON/OFF switch, unless the system no longer functions at all? Of course they're likely to drive the car and there's nothing wrong with that providing they're leagally insured to do so. It's impossible to "over-Rev" the car...

AC is an simple enough "with" or "without" configuration option to carryout with dealer level equipment but there is no way a generic ODB reader will have that kind of coding ability i'm afraid. Do you know what ODB setup they have as there are some aftermarket kits about that can interface with...

You cant just swap an actuated TB unit for a cable controlled one and just expect it to work with the standard ECM i'm affraid. There is a small amount of wiring to be done, you'll need to add an idle air control circuit and finally, the ECM will need to be reconfigured to know about the new...

So you've cleaned the earths up but have you actually improved them; what was the resistence readings before and after? Did you check the earth/cable condition at the multiplug and around the light boards also? Mick

What were the codes? Do they all come back upon clearing them?