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brake pedal fault??? I thought the OP was on about his engine light, or the emmisions warning light as renault call it. Or have I missunderstood what he was asking? The only time I've had cruise affected is with the abs and serv light on. Again, once I fixed the cause the lights went out and...

If the fault is fixed then the light will go out itself after a certain number of miles. For me it took a couple of days of driving, half a tank of fuels-worth, so approx 150 miles. Having said that, when I had the light on it was for an unknown reason and never came back. More recently when a...

You did well for persuing this. Many would have not trusted their own findings and/or just given up on the issue, I feel. In your position now I would be asking Renault if they have parts diagrams/tech drawings of shocks for the various 172 and 182 models. I was aware the Renault parts numbers...

Thermostat is very likely, yes. Mine did exactly that befoore I replaced it last year. But take caution with parts-factor items and get a genuine renault part if you can (I had to take ecp one back as it was too small). Once new one fitted it warmed up much quicker and the needle stays fixed a...

I would say its probably the cv joint is dry, as you say the gaitor is split.

182 does not have toe out on the rear. Mine measures about 2.5mm total toe in. I've seen some french docs that suggest the rear toe is negative but it's missleading as it definately toes in.

Good tyre that ^. The organisation I work for specs its vans on that tyre for all year round use. Get put to good use on pretty much all conditions, which can often be snowwy greavelly forest roads! Probably the best all-season, fit-and-forget tyre IMO

Yes, the out joint has to be against the bearing. I've no plans to space it out in any way, I hoped the shaft has enough movement within itself, if I'm making any sense?

Great advice, as always. I'ts something I'll look at over the winter. I'm intreaged. It was pointed out somewhere above that the abs pickup might be a problem. I can't see why this would be??? Could someone add any more on that?

Thanks for all the opinions chaps, appreciated. Thanks for clarifying that clios have negative scrub, I'd hoped/assumed they do, as most FWD do, and that confirms why I want to try moving the ball joint out a bit. The issue of driveshafts is one I thought would be pointed out. The 205 owners...

... anyone tried this? I have pondered this for a while now, with the aim of extend track without using spacers. Should offer up other geometry benefits to go with it as well from my understanding. Anyone whos tracked 205 gti's past or present probably knows the benefits of the 309 wishbones...

http://www.mytyres.co.uk/cgi-bin/rshop.pl?details=Ordern&cart_id=63654078.110.24241&kplz=&Cookie=&language=&typ=R-133568&dsco=110

Mine had the K-tec "group n" ecu reflash by the previous owner and it limits at around 7800. I have no shift light, unshure why? As others have said, it should limit at 7300 if standard, or 500rpm lower if still cold.

If you really like your 172 but wish it was slightly newer/fresher, and with the added cudos of being a tweeked-to-near-perfection version of the clio2 platform, then go Trophy. Choose a Megane if you simply want to go faster than any of the clio's with the added bonus of more...

Fair enough on a fly-off operated system... (which must be £££) but on a fixed/blade-adjustable ARB uprated vs springs I'm inclined to think that its easier just to find the right spring. no??

I'd be looking at upping spring rate over ARB for a track car any day. Also, pretty sure altering damper bump (firmer) will give more noticeable effect on the road than bigger ARB at the front, presuming sharpenning up the transient handling is the goal, if that's your aim? Otherwise why????

http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?630135-Definitive-answer-to-172-vs-172-Cup-182-castor-difference&highlight=extra+caster

depends what offset wheel your running (and the tyre size). Im my experience you can get away with plenty of camber that is offered through camber bolts without any drawbacks - without fouling strut etc. But its not an exact science. If you've swapped wheels/tyres etc its generally a...

You need to get it up in the air to get access to the ball joints/bushes/subframe bolts in the stearing and suspension to see what's up. Sounds like there's wear in something. It could be just a lower arm outer ball joint, but on a forum its just guess-work, it needs to be looked at.

....when wheel spinning? does this happen often? knocks like that sounds like what happens when the gearbox mount is loose. No idea why it pulls to right though

Sorry, my bad. I was going from memory and its only on the rears that the bump rubber fits inside the dust cover. The front is clearly just one part.

Don't have a 172 so can't be 100% sure what yours should be like. No, there's nothing to "activate" as far as I know. Are they made by KYB (like 182 ones are)?

The bump stop (rubber bit) fits inside the dust cover and slips over the piston rod (which I think thats what your describing). The bump rubber is essential as it restricts the maximum compression of the damper to prevent it being damaged every time you hit a bump (which dosn't have to be a very...

Mine self-extend under gas pressure. I fitted four new shocks last month and both old and new were the same, pushed themselves out again. I can't say if 172 shocks would be different to my 182 cup ones in that respect, but those seem broken to me. There should only be a very hushed "squish"...

How frustrating! You've got your new tyres on, right? (brand new michelins, If I recall rightly). I guess the toe can't be miles out if ATS have said its straight, but it will be worthwhile aligning it properly again. The steering wheel is not straight so having it done properly will sort that...

One more thing... did you make sure you got the right lower baljoints when you did them? two sizes are available, I'm pretty sure 12mm ones you need. Sorry If I'm clutching a t straws, just trying to think of anything and everything I can!

Not criticising you at all mate.... I've read it all, and remember it from earlier in the year too. You've had it tough by the sounds of it, all that effort and still not right etc... But like I say, the numerous alignments have not been productive, the last one I can see you've put up is March...

A refreshed front end and still it chewed up the front tyres?... its clearly not aligned right. If it were mine I'd re-check the tracking (toe) on different equipment before doing anything else. The rear shock wont help handling but wouldn't be the cause of wear on the front tyre. What was the...

In that case, definately put the wear to the inside of the rim. Trackdays will kill the outer edge of the fronts unless you have upwards of 3 deg neg camber. Swapping the tyre round on the rim prolongs the life of front-fitted trackday tyres on most these cars. Its a good idea to do it but many...

Without seeing exactly where the band of wear is its hard to know if upping pressure is necessary. It will be obvious if its folding over as the wear will be causing a bevel right on the shoulder, but if its just a general wear towar the outer edge then ??? For a road car outer wear is most...