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to be fair, it was properly buggered. More making the point that the price isn't fixed, they have to assess the damage

clean with brake cleaner, then grease the spindle ends. If you dont, the bushes the spindle sits in dry out

they do sell them in REWE (supermarket in Adenau) for about 10Euros, but they're a bit crap

last one i sent over was £400+vat

normally expect 25-30bhp difference between flywheel and wheels figures on these. There's a few variables though, depends on the type of rollers, tyre pressures and even your gearbox oil condition and temperature

Re: Peterborough Meet? Might make it for once if i'm about

just to make you all over excited....

This is well worth reading too, to understand principles http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/1859604358/?tag=cliospnet01-21

This is worth reading. http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/1859608353/?tag=cliospnet01-21 some of the ideas and methods are quite out-dated (it's emerald, they're a decade behind), but it's good to have as a starting point for the beginner

renault manual is full of mistakes and contradictions too. I use 20nm then 115deg +/-15deg for the crank pulley. It also says to refit the lower cover before fitting the crank pulley, which isn't necessary at all

can you get closer pictures of the chambers on each cylinder, and of the pistons in the bores please

with inner and outer boots split you WILL need a new shaft, as the inner one cannot be replaced.(assuming phase 2 172??) Genuine only, reconditioned shaft on exchange basis. Part is about £145. Gearbox story is bullshit, they've just got no knowledge of the car. Should have used a specialist

Well it's been rich on one cylinder, but that could be for a number of reasons. I wouldn't have taken it apart without doing some diagnostics first. Now you can't test compression. It could have been an injector, coil or plug lead at fault.

keeping the cat makes a huge difference, it won't be loud

don't really care. it's still wrong

lol, dude, read the thread (moderator....lol). he did that and fitted the new bolts and they're wrong

but 52mm are for smaller engined models which run a narrower track too, so it's going to throw out everything, camber would be positive for a start. Don't bother

52mm hubs are also narrower, it's not just the hole spacing that is different

I think we've established he has the right joints ;) keep up Edit: Sorry I just couldn't be dealing with a load of text. I don't have any bolts, no, as i don't remove them

http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?625087-The-Confused-Budget-Track-Clio!-*-Inc-197-Cup-Cage-Content*/page4

yes i'd say so, it won't bottom out

personally I keep the original bolts on rather than changing them, but that's more to do with one being captive in the arm and knocking this out to replace with a non captive would be silly.

49.1 is correct. Sounds like they might have a manufacturing difference

balljoints come with new bolts. If you've got 10mm bolts that came with the balljoint then it's the wrong joint.

Did mine last week with G3 and a rotary polisher. 15 minutes work and they're 95% like new

pads too tight in the calipers, it can't be anything else really

genuine isn't that expensive if it lasts longer ;)

erm....what? I have never and would never say that. I can't understand the rest of your post to be honest

f**king LOL!!!! still makes me giggle "don't tell Jay for f**k sake"

This cable says it's compatible, so you can pull the file off http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Galletto-1260-V1260-Remap-Chip-tuning-tool-OBD2-EOBD2-/200757861630?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item2ebe19dcfe#ht_24640wt_905 editing is at your own risk, read up on checksums