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right, seeing as this spineless accusation is aimed at me, I'll reply
Firstly, as you VERY well know, between the 2 of us we check the cam timing 3 times after the initial fitting, and it was absolutely bob on. so you can drop that bulls**t straight off.
Secondly, I deliberately DON'T post...
on a single fuel line, with say 1.2 bar of boost, you're effectively using 1.8bar of fuel pressure (when it's 3bar atmospheric). This will very obviously cause the flow potential to be lower by a significant amount. All down to pressure differential at the injector tip
You called me a week or so ago I believe, but didn't seem to want to cut/drill the backplate. There's no way around it, you have to do it or pay for it to be lazer cut
You also have to trim the bodywork a little
fitted a handful of them now, very nicely made. It'll feel like it's seized when you first put on the brass bush on the bottom of the stick, but dont panic, it loosens up just right with a little use
we had 2 supercharged clios on track at FCS a couple of years ago, literally all day, absolutely flat out. Both drove back to cheltenham straight afterwards. Not sure what issue there is?
Personally, either is a great option. I've got a great fondness for ITB's though, hence the increasing...
remove the hose from the caliper and see if fluid comes out when you press the pedal. If not it may be the bias valve above the axle is clogged up. Used to happen a lot on mk1s
I've narrowed down the best mounts to use after trying a lot, including standard and most pattern ones.
Genuine center mount, £8.04
Quality non genuine rear hanger £15.60
all on the shelf
decent stock engines are getting few and far between because everyone throws away anything broken. I bought my car after it's replacement engine lasted 2 weeks before starting to knock and the seller wanted rid of it as fast as physically possible
torque's still pisch but you can see where the vvt is switching off on the standard map, you'll definitely have a great bhp figure if the map's adjusted right
My recommendation for a fast road rebuild would be ARP rod bolts and a well chosen set of cams and leave the rest stock, but to the best standard you can manage. Maybe headwork and matched inlets, and also balancing as the next stages. all of that should give you a strong engine which will do...