Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
Hi I'm about to take on what is basically my 108k mile service, which I believe is the auxiliary belt change? Firstly... can I just confirm that a 'normal' garage should be able to take on this task without mucking it up? Obviously I understand why the cambelt on the Renaultsport's should be...
Something I really need sorting too...
There was a wicked interior I saw once but lost the thread, where the guy had replaced the original stickers with the orange from the dials, and the stitching was in orange too. Want! Anyone know what I'm talking about?
Need to find out who to contact...
Okay now everything's working I'm ready to get the amp and sub in there properly... what's the best way to secure the stuff down? I have used Velcro in the past which is okay for the amp but the sub Ihave this time is a in cylinder not sure it'll keep it in place! Is it actually recommended to...
I think they should have made the Clio in the classic Raider blue... would have been supreme. I'd take the R5 any day ;) (with the interior from the Clio)
Noticed my CC & speed limiter aren't working either... they just flick on, then off when I release the button. Just read a few threads and it seems this could also be related to the brake sensor?
Anyone? Am I imagining that I used to have some ClioSport mats :clown:
If it's not possible I'll have to go with some with the new logo... have PM'd 'Wests Renault' but haven't received a reply yet (sent 3 days ago) what's the best way to contact him? Thanks.
Well now... done as you said, 10.7v going in, 0v coming out. The fuse is perfect, the wiring is perfect. Took it all apart again to check, and yup it was a nice firm connection there no problems at all. Getting a bit frustrated! Put it back exactly how it was, measured one more time, now 10.7v...
Yeah fuse is in there, it's all good!
Okay so just done battery positive to car metal = 11.75v
Battery negative to car metal = 10.70v
Battery connection on amp to car metal = 1.40v
This mean it's the lead? Will be annoyed as paid £35 for the kit just 2 weeks ago :S (still cheaper than a new...
Okay, strange results! In that it's one of each...
+ & - = 0v
Rem & - = 11.71v
Also, just whilst I was at (dunno if it means anything!)
Rem & bat = 10.69v
Rem & earth = 11.72v
The earth point is definitely good because I took it off and tried again and results were 4.23v & 5.21v
Does that...
Would have liked to got it sorted over Christmas but no real rush... just phoned my best 'car buddy' friend and he sold his amp last month bugger :( no one else I know is really into cars anymore.
I'll try and grab a meter at some point and get all that checked before spending monies. Any you...
Okay today I tried alternative earthing points, power lead and remote lead... and still absolutely no life from the amp, has to be a dead amp right!? Everything else has been checked and double checked now!
Hi am looking to buy some decent mats finally for my 182... and whereas the official ones are nice, I do find it kinda annoying that they're only available with the new style 'Sport' logo. Is there anywhere that uses the old font? Or even, a place that can provide them with our own lovely...
Halfords have been good like that to me in the past, let me borrow a headunit once to see if my wiring was right :) and it was. Have even let me borrow tools lol! Do I just happen to have an over-friendly store?
Don't have a meter here but I could nab one from work, I'm pretty much a n00b with...
Well got everything finished off today, did a good job if I do say so myself...
Went to power it up, and nothing :(
No power whatsoever to the amp. Checked fuses on power lead and amp both fine, double checked all connections everything's perfect. Must just be a dead amp? There's literally...
Typically found the tools I had didn't go to a big enough size, so just used my "small fingers" lol and got the wires all under there eventually! Took a bit of time though and now it's dark... crimping and connecting up tomorrow me thinks!
Probably 4/10...
Had two now and unfortunately both revealed faults within just a couple of weeks of ownership. First one had manifold to CAT ring break, lambda sensor fail, exhaust needing replacement due to failing emissions on MOT, and occasionally failed to turn on (never found out why!)...
Sounds like exactly what happened to me in my CRX years ago... cost me £900 to put right, and tbh, it never was 'right' again. Then I sold it for £850! :dead: depending on how much your car is worth, break it imo.
Thanks... if my brakes are coming on straight away though, I take it there's no point in doing it? Or is it worth a reset just in case. Like ye olde faithful 'on and off again' which we use a million times a day at work.