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Been ticking away at this when I get time between other jobs! 5hrs from starting to having the engine and box out I was quite happy with! Slave cylinder was leaking which was the cause of the loss of clutch pedal as expected, looks like its never had a clutch in its 80k miles and wasnt far...

Much better!

to me it sounds exactly like the fuel rail guard rattle, and the fact its only happening at idle and stopping when the AC raises the idle, to me points to that!

if its loose and rattling

check the fuel rail guard then.

Have you confirmed its definitely the AC compressor? does the noise come and go with the activation of the AC? As above just stick a second hand AC compressor on it. Make sure the fuel rail guard is tight as these can also cause a metallic rattle when they are loose

don't worry about the reg being wrong. That just needs a good warm up before test, surprized they didn't, We would have failed that, took it on a road test to warm it up and retested and passed.

You won't find anything off the shelf, need to make one. Need to ask yourself if it's worth causing yourself MOT grief and an engine management light for not really any benefit though....

Anyone done anything aftermarket with the sound deadening at the rear of the engine bay that covers the brake lines etc? mine is falling to bits and I've got the engine out currently. I've sent an enquiry to RPD to see if its still available and cost but was interested to see if anyone has done...

A quick Google shows you can just mount it directly onto the throttle body https://strperformance.com/en/4319-renault-clio-mk1

What is it about the seats you feel uncomfortable? There are a few different versions for the mk3, what ones do you have?

Updated no. 134 currently on marketplace No 001 = Y423 XES - P111ura No 002 = Y424 XES - Djw Dave SCRAPPED No 003 = **** *** - The_Notorious_C_A_T No 005 = Y516 KAR - ( ) No 006 = **** *** - leeds-182 No 007 = Y7 LVL - ( ) No 008 = **** *** - Scrapped 2020 No 010 = Y754 NMO - EBAY £2350 , 91300...

I've got a £99 motor factor special on my race van and its the lightest exhaust I've ever lifted. That to me is a race system.

thats one way to do it! am i being thick or can i not see an engine lifting point anywhere, certainly on mine anyway!

that was the point i decided to pull the lot!

I've had a 200 box with the shorter 1-3rd gear ratios for this for a while with new synchro's to fit and a new clutch to fit at the time but never got round to it until my Mrs used it for ONE DAY and managed to break it!!!!! in her defence the slave cylinder failed and she lost the clutch pedal...

Perfect thanks mate!

I'm trying to identify if this is a genuine Clio 200 box, it has the following code which points towards a diesel box: But then it also has this sticker peeling off which points towards a 200 box:

Couple of bits updated from the listings that have appeared No 001 = Y423 XES - P111ura No 002 = Y424 XES - Djw Dave SCRAPPED No 003 = **** *** - The_Notorious_C_A_T No 005 = Y516 KAR - ( ) No 006 = **** *** - leeds-182 No 007 = Y7 LVL - ( ) No 008 = **** *** - Scrapped 2020 No 010 = Y754 NMO -...

Mine hasn't failed but I didn't have a fitting kit so temporarily bolted it solid together with nuts and bolts (removing the flex of the springs) and 2x years later ive never went back to fix it and its spot on! its never caused any excess wear on the exhaust mounts etc I know that's not a...

Na they don't, I'll wire one in when I get time, I do run a testing station though lol

Boring update, not much been happening with it, I done a new AC condenser as it was leaking and done a re gas, so the AC works as it should. Was at the scrappys today getting some bits for my mk2s and picked up a pair of good condition ph2 rear lights!

I had one today, inlet pictured just pulls off and you can get an oil filter removal tool straight on, 30 second job

come on guys, heel and toe is a nice skill to learn!

As above make a new set easy for that line, any good garage will probably do it for an hours labour. They join at the join you can see in the pics obviously and the other end is under the car just before it goes up the chassis leg towards the engine bay

Yeah exactly that! ive used it overnight to charge completely dead batteries and the car fires up perfectly the next day!

not an area I know much about unfortunately, there's definitely a few knowledgeable people on the subject on here though!

you could look to run an amp that support speaker level line in and amp the front speakers.

id be changing the head unit well before i went near the speakers. The standard unit wont have the guts to run more powerful speakers and in most cases will give you the opposite of what your looking for!

I use a pair of Silverline trickle chargers on my 2 motors, used them for the last 2 years and they have both been spot on and keeping the cars topped up, they are about a tenner each too!!!! Silverline12 Volt Trickle Battery Charger Car Van Motorhome Caravan Motorbike12v 5024763036545 | eBay