Search results

Proper road trip (y) Low 50mpg sounds about right at 80mph, need to be under 70 for 60’s really. I wouldnt worry too much about a bit of oil consumption over 3k miles, providing its not totally dry. Mine uses a bit too, but not excessive, i think Ren say a ltr over 1000miles is...

@Conor L will last a while now you have treated the rust, proper job (y)

Progress update on the chode/noddy van/shortarse. Basically nothing has happened but have gathered loads of parts. Enough to build up the new engine. Found the rare 250 inlet manifold. Need to make an adaptor plate to suit the r26 throttle body. Fuel rail will have the reg removed, inlet and...

Updates Ac is still working awesome (touch wood) have stayed nice and cool in the current heatwave. No regrets at all spending a small fortune recomissioning it. My mate was breaking a dci so robbed the front fogs as mine were knackered. Repaired the damaged o/s rear bumper bracket from...

Looked like a nail when up for sale cheap. Now an expensive nail, 5k with what looks to be rust on the o/s arch, high mileage, rough bodywork, prob loads of other stuff unseen:LOL:

Whilst apart i noticed the rear engine mount had split around the welds. Its done 800 miles running in mileage and mapping, hardly used. Mount is a vibratechnics one. Proper flimsy piece of s**t really, only welded on one side, not cheap and not fit for purpose I was highly annoyed over this...

Renault Extra oil leak saga. After mapping i noticed a leak on the crankshaft side of the sump. Jacked it up and could see oil running from crank area. So stuck it in the garage and left it for a few weeks. Had a weeks leave from work booked in so proceeded to drop subframe and take gearbox...

Kangoo conversion is easy really, just labour intensive. Exhaust is really the only custom bit needed. Mine was based on a cup, no ac, no abs and rear drums. 1k is fair, 2 weeks labour or a week if your really grafting.

Not worth the risk tapping it in situ.

Looks awesome. I defo need to get to Knockhill at some point looks class

Acf 50 spray and acf 50 corrosion block grease for the coilover threads. Done the bc's on the 250 a couple of years ago and still in great condition.

250 cup and the battery saga. Had an oldish Bosch battery on it which went flat over winter, had been hanging on for ages without regular use. Feeling generous and like a reliable car so stuck a new Yuasa batt on from Halfords with trade discount so was quite cheap. Stuck it on and it started...

Updates Been all over in the blue clio, trip to London a couple of weeks ago and plenty of miles local ish whilst at work. Aircon still ice cold touch wood, works great. Oil change time as done 8k since last one. Ten min job with vac pump, invested in a cheap oil filter socket kit as the oil...

No idea, 2nd hand rail sensor is dirt cheap i would just replace it

Rail sensor is poss faulty then, need to look at the fault data.

Not bought any expensive waxes, but my go to collinite 476 lasts forever. You dont need to apply it very often, once or twice a year, just topped up with sonax bsd every now and then. Ive also been using gtechniq c2v3 which is good. Overall id say the collinite lasts as long as the c2v3.

Whats the state of the error code, minimum or maximum? More to it than just the code. It will be leak off test time

Trekka running gear is not very strong Sadly. @Mickb is on with a 4wd setup with vag box (y)

No rush for it mate, if you can get some measurements when your back that will be spot on (y)

Can anybody with the Bridgecraft/Northloopcup setup do me a favour and measure the length of the roll correction pin and rosejoint (from hub to end of thread) ? Im about ready to hit the switch and buy a setup for my R5gtt converted Extra van, need to check if it will fit under my 13” wheels...

I paid £60 for a regas with leak dye. I believe most places will add leak dye for free if you ask. If you think you have a leak, any good specialist will be able to fill it up with nitrogen, leak dye and a small amount of refrigerant. I paid £25 for that, and they checked around the visible...

I took a punt on these seals for the wide ones, supposed to be for a megane. No idea if correct size yet as not disturbing anything unless the gas leaks out. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/372703856637

Can get the pag oil cheap off ebay about a fiver for a small bottle. Sometimes you can get a bit out of the old pipework to wet the seal. Regarding replacing the o-rings, i spoke to my local air con specialist and he said they rarely change the o rings unless damaged or the system has been in a...

Good to hear the seals arrived ok (y) Working ac is totally the way forward, id rather go on a diet myself than pull it out of a road car. Id be temped to change the condensor for a new one as it looks a little bit oily as they are quite cheap to buy. Ive found a source for the wide seals that...

Great vid, love Castle Combe. What camera are you using, quality looks class. Cant believe combe let the lad out in the mx5 with an open face helmet, i got pulled at Cadwell in an open face helmet in an s2000, had to do the reverse of shame :LOL:

Its probably a knackered clone clip, The cheap ones break for fun. Can get the software and leads but i wouldnt chance it myself. Good quality clone is around £130 new on ebay.

Racetech oil temp is a fixed length pipe from memory you cant chop it. If you need the oil pressure pipe, easy to knock up a pipe from 3an ptfe if you know what fitting is on the gauge.

I had hot start issue on mine and cam sensor was the issue. Needs scanning to see whats stored or pissing in the wind though.

Looks well mate. Big hammer should get the torsion bars out

Flashing eml is usually a failing injector. Stick a new set in, makes a fair difference to running