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I've drained oil and removed the reverse sensor, not seeing anything, be a pain to strip it down just for a nylon bush or something daft. It's on 66k and doesn't weep from the usual seal.

From 5th to centre yes,not from 1st or reverse, you need to pull it over, the pivot in the gearbox is stiff when pushing it up, the linkage and spring etc are all good. Not sure how they look inside the box above that pivot arm, I'm guessing something is misaligned after my spirited drive...

I have an issue whete the vertical arm (one that leaks at the seal) in the gearbox is sticking when selecting first, second and reverse,up position at the box. Reverse is very hard, have to push the lever over and select, I've disconnected the linkage to rule that out and confirm that the arm...

Try some oven cleaner, just let it sit a while to do it's thing, might work

Does ot happen all the time when pulling off or more so on hard lock, febi mounts should be fine. try pushing engine forward, if no luck then you might want to spanner check the front end, and work everything with a pry bar

Test the crank sensor and wiring, you'd need a multimeter and a helping hand, test the voltage at the plug and resistance of the sensor, or just change the sensor and wiring, cheap, easy to do and they are prone to fail anyway, hopefully it sorts the issue

https://www.remotekey.co.uk/shop/renault/renault-clio-mark-2-1998-to-2001/renault-clio-mk2-immobiliser-bypass/ Never used one myself, but it might help

Fit a ew battery in the key first, or try starting it with the key fob button pressed in, maybe some wires have been disturbed, nothing doing a box should cause this issue though,

Are you sure the pump is primming/getting power at the times it's failing to start, if it definitely is then I'd trust the crank sensor and wiring

Are the newer style wiring crimp fit or solder?

Just order some skf bearings, they are a good product used in various industry, mine have been fine for 8yr, you'll get them off ebay usually with quick delivery

Yeah it's hard juggling life, I feel your pain, but you'll need something to do once the masters is out the way and the little ones at school 😂

I dontbknow why you don't spend one weekend getting it all set up correctly, with all the little bits finished then just use it for a year or so, you haven't enjoyed the thing yet, get the geo set up, stick it in for tuning and get ready to enjoy the summer at least, garage that m3 for a while 😂

Yokohama ad08r is what I use, loads more grip than the ps3 for the summer, they are also very good in the wet which helps, downside is they harden the ride a little

My cup is exactly the same and always has been, nothing wrong with mine. Think it's just very poor mapping

Heat and a swan neck, will come out fine,

Thermostat could be stuck open, its a serviceable item so I would have it changed and flush the system,

Hard to find with the offset or fitment for the car, even upgraded wheels is very hard to find, the styles that are close I don't like, I'll sort some out soon maybe

It's around 70 to 80 to change them over from a guy i know, I've been looking for wheels but not much about, and the ones I have seen I'm not keen on paying the price as most are rough as toast or wont deliver, I'll likely get a set next year hopefully or upgrade the wheels, I have been looking...

I was thinking on them, I'm up in the North east of Scotland, but I work away from home a lot so its not used daily as such

I would like these but they are double the price, I know they are better but not sure I need to spend so much, already spend enough on summer tyres 🤣

I'm looking to get some winter tyres for my megane, 235/35/19. Has anyone used the kumho wintercraft wp72? They seem reasonably priced Cheers

Just use a nut splitter to take them off, it will damage the bolts but it's easier if heavily corroded, they like to rust under them brackets

Look forward to it, my one is what they call oem+ I think 😂 just finished another quick refresh of the underside, did it 8yrs ago and it held up pretty good tbh with the bilt hamber wax, one thing not to do is powdercoat anything, it simply falls apart, properly applied paint is much better...

Most good ones are priced too high from what I've seen, can get some mk3's for sometimes not much more, one thing to know, they are a pain in the hole to work on, buy the best you can is my advice. They are just a total different car to the 172 in all aspects, and obviously much easier to drive...

A good spring with new dampers is much better on the road than a lot of coilovers on a light car like the clio, only the very best coilovers are worth fitting imo, otherwise there too hard, crashy and make the car skip when you hit any sort of bump when pushing on, makes driving fast on our...

Moly grease is best, a think layer on the end of the springs will help also, there should be a plastic spacer between the spring and helper spring, just incase this is missing

If you drive it on the road, I'd leave the roof lining and carpet in, horrible places to be once that's out imo

Ball joints are cheap, re bushing it is simple enough, I'd fit standard bushes over powerflex if you can, unless racecar

If its purely track then 3degree or whatever your after will be fine, if you use it more on the road, I wouldn't go over 2 max as its horrible to drive imo, pulls all over and never quite composed on the uk road surfaces, even worse when wet, I have roughly 1.8 I think it is and that's just bare...