Search results

Found some energy today so got the sump on, gearbox on and starter on and loomed up. Swung the crane out and got it back in the hole and loosely on its mounts. Next I'll get everything I can bolted up and see if it fits correctly, so shifter cables and driveshafts and ill look at the dogbone...

No hanging about! cant wait to see this taken further now. F4r on itbs would make all the right noises in this thing 👍🏻 looking forward to the updates

If your actuator is already taking its feed from the turbo outlet its already at the lowest pressure point it can take it from, moving it further from the turbo will only increase overall boost pressure to the engine. So you are into the realms of swapping out the actuator for a lower rated one...

If 10psi seems to be your base value you may have to change the actuator or change where you take a reference from to make it see it differently. So the 10psi the actuator sees is taken from a pressure reference point. Usually from the inlet manifold. To see 10psi at the inlet the turbo might...

ideally you set an actuator as loose or at the lowest possible pressure you can run without it effecting spool up time and then use a controller/bleed valve to go up from there.

look for a dawes device type manual controller for a cheap and cheerful way to help with spool, work way better than a bleed type valve as they tend not send any boost pressure to the actuator until the set level is reached thus getting rid of the creeping open so give you a bit more low down...

I'd keep in contact and hope they release it then pillage it for every tasty part, has ast top mounts on there too

thats such an awesome update and a great step to get to along the way. can't wait to see some road test videos 👍🏻

Cheers (y) probably a while off yet but if its out and rolling by the summer ill be happy

A good friend, well 2 sorted me out on a new fuel pump today and an Oil cooler for the Twingo. I was gifted 3 spare pumps from his workshop .Checked them over and part numbers to get flow rates. 1st was a denso r35 gtr pump 145lph, 2nd a unisia jecs a42h24 which comes in at 190lph and 3rd a...

my laguna f4rt one was 42mm same as the twingo gt aswell. i was wondering if it was possibly smaller than the normal meg one after you said 56mm. Parts number was the same between the lag and meg though... yeah never seen the point in increasing the size on a clio. has anyone ever actually...

Finished up the brake lines this eve, I HATE working with copper lines but they will do the job. Had to borrow the kit, must be 15 years since I've had to touch a flaring tool as I usually get someone else to do a neater job of running lines in for me. Slipped on some heat sleeving to maybe help...

pretty sure most pass 300+ still on the stock item? 42mm isnt it? The old Renault 5 gt turbo will make 220+ bhp on a 25mm throttle lol

only just got round to getting pics but gt shafts next to the 172 shafts I have here. GT one have the twisted spline ends. Not worried about them tbh.

oooo found more, now i want another

g40 runs a gladder supercharger though so different. Most clios run a Rotrex, very different in design. (mine did break though lol) but in terms of strain on the rest of the vehicle, heat management (no big turbo close to the bulkhead, brake lines and steering rack) its a better bet, just alot...

I built mine probably 10 years ago so so excuse the potato camera. It was 240bhp to start with then increased to 280bhp later on with a larger air restrictor on a stock 100k ph1 engine and clutch. Omex 600 ecu with meg 225 injectors.

On a second note there's less issues with heat on a sc car, no boiling brake fluid and no turbo to keep coming loose

I built a SC one many years back and owned a turbo one also, Supercharger hands down for delivery on the track, just like driving a big power NA engine with constant increase in power right to the rev limiter

Cracked on with the belts today. Was a bit of a pain doing the bottom pulley up with an engine loose on the floor and ended up leaning it against the work bench and putting a scaffold pole on the bar to get my 95 degree tightening. All went well though and everything seems to line up nicely when...

the thread you linked was clio to clio not megane to clio like you are trying you muppet. physically bolting it in is easy, wiring the meg loom and ecu into a clio with clio uch or meg uch will be a ball ache and hasn't been done in anything I can see you have linked? so I really don't know...

how so out of interest?

I thought the 776 was the 163bhp turbo engine, different cams and pistons possibly higher compression too when i last looked into it.

polished (and waxed) turd

Seriously man you are going to have to use your noodle and Google stuff. What you are doing isn't normally done so you are going to have to make it happen or go a different route. If it hasn't readily been done no ones got the info to spoon feed you.

search for Visu

Thought id crack on what I thought would be a daunting task but really wasn't. Re-looming everything to suit the new sensor positions, being a relatively new loom it was very easy with no nasty surprises. Most things were very close in position from the d4ft to the F4rt bar a few little bits...

Still looks like a pile of scrap currently. We are past 2 weeks wait for the cambelt and oil filter delivery. Got some other bits turning up next week though, I want to have this back in the car and fully mounted in the next 2 weeks. Id be happy with that then I can move to all the extras like...

Awesome find, seem to be a fair few gems getting found and brought back to life on here at the moment. Good work (y)

Great minds an all that. Spoke with them this morning (y) I am sending them the parts so they can measure up, confirm its the same then sending something back to suit :D