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Is a inch long crack in the windsreen an MOT failure?
My MOT is up at the end of November and in the last
few months I have not seen a single window repair bloke
in any of the supermarket car parks.
I know that the repair is free, I just havn't seen one,
will the car fail its MOT if I leave it?
I had a spare set given to me when I bought my car
but I do know from other peoples threads that the rear ones
are about £50 each, not sure about the frount ones.
Someone on hear will know though mate.
It will most probably be your shocks/dampers.
They fail all the time, it sounds like you've lost some
fluid out of them, they will need changing mate.
I just changed my rear ones today and I could not
believe how much they were leaking.
My 172FF was bouncing over bumps and sliding out
on...
Sod it then,
i'm just gonna change em without a torque wrench,
i'm sick of bouncing over bumps and sliding round corners!
Went sideways round a roundabout the other day,
scared the sh1t out of some bloke waiting to cross,
and it was in the wet, with a car beside me, nearly hit him.
Wasnt...
I spoke to GDI today and they told me that the rear
dampers need 80-90nm of torque on the bottom nut,
and the top one just needs tightening as much as it will go.
They also said that the wheel nuts need 100nm of torque
and that its realy important to torque them up,
because its feckin...
My mates got the Milltek systems on his 182 cup,
its not that much louder than standard but it has
alot more bass, makes it sound meaner.
Plus the tail pipes fill the bumber recesess perfectly,
the standard ones looked like pea shooters in comparison.
Will that not screw up the handeling?
105NM it should be done to.
Won't mess it up going over or under but its good practice don't bodge anything
Is that the top or bottom nut or both?
I've read as much as possable about changing rear shocks/dampers.
Nowhere does it mention torque settings for the nuts.
Alot of peaple say just tighten them up, but why do
torque settings exist for the rear shocks/dampers
if its not important!
Could someone please tell me what the deal is!
They flash on my 172FF, however my T/C is Fooked!
So every now and again I will have Serv + esp light on.
To skint to get diagnostic a check.
GDI in peterborough said they would check it for
me £15 but I cant even afford that!
I have to chose between food or car!
Whenever im on bumpy roads in my 172FF
the back feels like its skipping/Bouncing around,
If im on a bend or the road has an adverse camber and I hit a bump,
it jumps to one side.
My m8s 182cup doesnt do it at all and thats lighter,
we have concluded that my rear shocks/dampers are on
the way...
I think thats probably best, no-one has ever mentioned them
on here, but everyone goes on about GDI.
Best not to risk it with a garage that no-ones used.
Does anyone know if there any good?
I asked for a quote on a cambelt change and
diognostic check (T/C fault code) last week, ive rang up about 4 times
and still no call back, if there this bad at ringing you back
what they gonna be like with my car.
Just wondered if anyone has had any...
Just one thing.
Don't forget to write the EXACT TIME he took it
off your hands in a 24h clock, you dont want him
getting done for speeding and then blaming you.
If you have the service book (the red one)
its printed inside the frount cover at the bottom.
Just pray that the code in the book is the one
for the stereo in your car.
When I bought my 172 someone had put a different
head unit in so my code diddn't work.
Had to buy a completely new...
Ive got a 172 FF, when I got it the exhausts was
blowing and leaking water vapour from one of the
joins.
£10 exhaust heat sealent from halfrauds
sorted it.
(as long as the hole or gap isnt that big)
OK I'll check the solonoid.
My cars a 52 plate so no warenty left on it.
I'll have to paty more cash.
Bloody car, the only thing that works properly
is the engine.
Ive just realised that when I lock the car
the boot stays unlocked!
When you open it the alarm goes off,
but this is no good if i'm not near the car.
Has anyone else had this problem?
How do you sort it out?
Ive been searching for a new head unit and some of
them are compatable with steering controls,
some of the cheaper Alpines.
There around £100-£200.
I did all my research online, just typed in
car stereos and found loads.
If you buy one that isn't compatable then an
adapter is needed £20ish.