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for what I do on my phone I don't see any speed increase when im using my home wifi than I get out on the move on 3G and im running Virgin Media 50mb at home lol
of course it wont hence why I said its a good safe guard for them to use, it in absolutely no way affects the driving experience of the box in any way though does it?
with a decent manual gearbox it will let you downshift to a gear that could cause engine damage, all my clios have done it bar...
I cant see how allowing you to downshift would be any different to what you can currently do, I managed to go from the top end of 4th gear to 3rd in a 172 years ago instead of 5th.
however of course it would be a good safe gaurd to prevent the gearbox from doing this as all its going to do is...
but if your in a sideways slide a quick pull on the left paddle and an ultra quick shift is much quicker than, clutch down, shift down on the gearbox you cant rush or it will brake, clutch up and power down, id have thought anyway?
and as for having to change up mid corner, you have a turbo...
185/55/15 are an uncommon size, so its usually cheaper to fit 195/55/15 (well I fit 195/50/15 as they are lower profile) and being a more common size means as well as being a bit wider they are cheaper
Lol at the haters saying why would you want that at 20, yeah because bitches love 172's with yozzas.
When i was 20 i had my brand new gt dci clio, £16k of motor, my mate had a polished up £1200 318i and everyone thought he was loaded with his beemer, birds loved it
Venom are having issues with FK so they have got me AP coilovers due this weekend so pics will be up as soon as they are on. Will be straight into Progrip Larbert for a full geometry setup too
also got carried away and ordered a stainless turbo downpipe/decat pipe from Protoxide in Italy (£250...
full lazer geometry check should show up any issues with belt bottom arms/subframe.
it showed up immediately when Renault fitted mine back on properly and showed up on my mrs 1.6 16v when it had a bent bottom arm
2500 miles, engine spun a bearing and destroyed its self. bodged back together by ARNOLD CLARK STIRLING (IDIOTS) was given it back with the steeringwheel sitting at 2 oclock when going straight, they massively adjusted tracking to "fix it" however it was actually the full subframe being on...
filter, better intercooler, 172/182 injectors, decat and a good map (rs tuning).
standard turbo limits you to around the 150hp mark, no point in really going for anything bigger unless your forging it
well I assume hes not going to be mapping it himself hence why I said you could only do it for less if you can map! of course you wouldn't need to map it to get it running but 100hp isn't much for all the time and money you just spent converting
internals are the same in the bottom end its the top end that's uprated slightly to handle the boost, but afaik compression ratio in the same.
it would be a doddle other than the ecu/wiring that's the only bit Im not sure about.
straight line it wont be as quick as a 172/182 until your running...
all had sunroofs until 2004 no matter what model, after 2004 I believe it was optional extra only. as any I had didn't have one after this date other than 2 that had full electric sunroofs (which still rattle like f**k btw!!)
1.6 16v are cheap to buy, go ok for what they are although aint great...
Diesels are a lot more complicated than petrols.
If the fuel pump fails which is getting more common now they are older it takes out the injectors too, so pump, injectors, fuel lines all nees replaced, tank needs drained and cleaned. Not a cheap fix!
you could do it for under a grand if your handy, much less if you can map!
£1000 ontop of your £1500 1.2 16v, sure you could buy a 172 for that money but you would have something just as fast and very unique for your cash!
not worth it at all then, the potential £1000+ bill of the DCi going wrong is not worth having on your shoulders when your only doing 200 miles a week.