Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
Regular monthly meet for the South East/West of Scotland areas.
They'll be on the 3rd Thursday of every month, alternating between a few different general locations around the central belt, so it's fair for everyone.
Myself and/or Djw John will always try to be in attendance at these meets in...
Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo. Can pick them up for £25 on Amazon and I've heard nothing but praise for them.
I personally don't have one yet because I can't fit it in my case lol (they are TALL) but my mate has one and its an excellent cooler for the price.
In a nutshell, yes, you'll feel bumps slightly more, but the car will generally handle better. Its safe to just change the springs, unless going for a huge drop, and they're a lot better than apex springs.
What are you fitting these to though? Non-sport clio or a 172/182 or what?
Are you sure the cat isn't sagging down at the join? Your car is still a fair bit higher than my ph1, and mines only just scrapes on bigger speedbumps.
I know the rear brake pads are fine, not checked the fronts, although I changed them last year so I don't think they'll be worn right down. I'd need to have a look though.
Never knew it was an engine out job on these! Awesome pictures.
Y'know, I thought the exact same when I got the belts done on my 172. The likes of high lift cams will change an exhaust note, so it's definitely possible the timing being altered could affect it if it's made enough of a difference...
Yeah, the pipe to the slave cylinder was pretty much full of air. Had to take it off and bleed it through until I was just getting fluid, but even after that it took a good minute of pumping the pedal to get proper pedal feel back.
I'm not sure about a leak tbh. There may be, as I was a bit...
Cheers Mick, tried topping it up but still nothing. Tried to bleed fluid through to the slave cylinder too with some help but there's hardly any fluid coming through. Does a full bleed require bleeding the master cylinder too?
To cut a long story short, my brake fluid ran a low and I'm now 99% sure I've pulled air into the clutch system this morning 😧. Pedal is spongy and only about half the usual travel, and it wont go into gear.
Does it sound like I'll need to bleed the clutch now or will a fluid top up do...
I wasn't sure if this was serious. Then I realised you were serious in this thread, this one, this one, this one too, oh, and this one as well. I can't see this thread going well.
If they're in any way similar to the mk2 cat sections then yes, it's a nightmare of a job.
I had to undo the top engine mount and move the engine as far forward as possible to get access to undo the bolts attaching it to the turbo, then drop the cat out from below. On most, you need to remove...
Does it have to be intel? I built my pc for around £700 including OS (no peripherals though besides a £30 mouse), but I'm running AMD CPU and graphics. Runs most games I have on the highest or second highest settings.
The egr (exhaust gas recirculation) valve does basically exactly that. It recirculates some of the exhaust gases and mixes it back in to the air inlet to reduce emissions.
Exhaust gases in a diesel always contain a bit of soot though, and this mixes with oil vapours and builds up as the black...
That'll be the map sensor. I'm 99% sure the dci 65 doesn't have a maf sensor.
Unplugging the egr will just make it stay constantly closed. I've had mine unplugged ever since I got the car lol because it was sticking.
MAP is manifold air pressure, MAF is mass air flow, both different sensors. Unplugging sensors would probably put the car into a sort of default 'open loop' fuelling mode, which could explain the increase in power. Have you tried just disconnecting the egr valve and running like that?