Search results

EH!? What are you dribbling on about. In your first post you say this........which leads everybody to think you are talkin about the Rd version cup being the only chassis base you can use in the clio cup series. In your last post you stated totally different and already widely accepted and...

for all their technical wizardry, you would of thought they could spell properly. Its the new 20V, not a GroupB effort.

damn straight! if there are no cars for a grand......i go to findit.co.uk

i wouldnt ever set the search function to max at 3K!

aint his mum had it for a while?

erm, easy yea, you could call it that, but do you have enough cash handy to make it easy. All the parts needed to get there are at hand, but they cost. I would stick with a flowed head, set of cams (id try the schricks, not kent of piper), as best fettle manifolds, increase the CR a tad with...

erm, had a look at the engine? not broken the doggie mount? cant think of anything at the mo, its 1am!

put the 172 head on with the turbo exhaust cam. But there were concerns over the height of the F4R unit in it, although its not the 730 with its inlet manifold.

My work is roughly 400 quid for a 16V head.

one of the better modifications you can do, a properly worked head will give gains everywhere with no pitfalls. Dont know how much HP charge but my cylinder heads are roughly 400 quid for a 16V.

get teh tracking done. And settiing up if you have the bolts is only a manner of making a camber gauge and turning the bolts.... Did you talk to paul at Mardi Gras?

Enrol at a Uni...............ooops, sorry, thats party mode. There is no learning mode, your just resetting it, and it has to learn its figures again, which it checks reguarly anyway all you are doing is having to reset the clock lol

problem is, all cars go through a dip in the market where they are worth nothing, and i wouldnt pay more than 2-2.5K for any top valver, simply because there are so many about......and getting a 1k one and doinga few odd jobs seems more appealing. plus, i couldnt handle a mint car......id...

lol! Boo!

well, find out how much camber you got, as your car aint lowered is it? Mine is and i dont wear the inners out......unless your tracking is mega out and bushes worn.

you cant.......simple. If your a dab hand at fabricating then there are better ways than Ktecs bolts.........but i cant be arsed to give the details no cause nobody ever does them. how bad is your camber?

any clio box will fit, but wont suit the engine.

ok, IF there is enough thread showing you get 2 exhaust nuts. screw one on but dont tighten it up and leave space for the second one IF there is space. Screw the second one on till it meets the first nut. Now you tighten them together by turning the first one ANTI clockwise and the 2nd one...

yup

no way! i sure as hell wouldnt pay that much........might be worth it, buti wont pay it haha. id say 200-250 for the interior, it is after all some seats, are you getting trim with it too. And the engine, well......unless he has other buyers, you offer is its value, so its either zilch...

then why do we bother having a tech forum?

well, if they said make an offer, make a sily cheap one! doh! its worth as much as you can fool them into beleiveing.

phillip, i cant remmeber the actual spot on compression values, but 10% is about the max varying limit. Each cylinder should be up to maximum pressure within 3 chugs, anymore and something needs to be checked. Also, pour a teaspoon of oil down the cylinder that is weakest and if it bumps up...

lol...is that a hayned manual on the roof!? :P

shouldnt be, normal clockwise to tighten, anti to loosen, it just a different thread that works in aluminium.

a penetrating fluid. like WD40 but designed to penetrate...........KY anyone? lol

cylinder number 4 then, or the one nxt to the flywheel, unless you number them 1-4 from the flywheel lol!

Call nick, i can do the head, but cannot supply the chip or cam.

Yes, running injectors that cant supply enough will damage your valve (most exhaust) and piston. In CB1As case, runing nitrous is sensitive, you have to run it spot on or slightly rich. His combustion temps would of increased, i dont think it caused an exhaust valve lip to get extreemly hot...

erm, well sorta....but saying it relearns is taking it a bit far. It just goes back to its initial settings then feels how far it can go with the ignition timing, thats the only thing it really adj when off closed loop. Oh, and people have a real problem getting topics into the correct forum?