Search results

POO!!!!! not wet again!!! at least my tyres wont wear out lol! cya there.........same session.....see if i can keep up with 172 bhp of raw throbbing.....ahem.......your car.

karts go round sideways. :P

yup, when cold pressure it high, but at 80 deg C you should be at 1 bar roughly at 1000rpm and 3 bar at 3500rpm. What oil you running?

140 bhp ATW, same as what i hit when i was developing the RS-R kit!!!! SOOOOOOOOOOOORTED!

It will be modified under that nut/suspension cup. If you want, whip it off, it wont do any damage and will go abck on, its just a nut. Then take a pic of whats under it. Then tighten it back up to 74 ft/lbs.

did you look at your oil pressure at the time?

yup, 50bhp is small, controller is only really needed for 75bhp+

i thought the head and cams were put off? Like ive always said, the hardware is available....not a problem at all, the only thing is the manifold which is available form europe. Mapping WILL be a complete b**ch though......nightmare!

if the bearign are very worn and loose it could be the problem, also multiplied by imbalanced wheels. If you have no mechanical experience dont dabble in bearings, you need a large press to insert and remove them and do it wrong and you candamage the bearings. Just get to some speed, take...

really.........people get jelous over that!!! Do you live in a Drama Village or something? lol just make sure you dont loose if you challenge him! haha

no problems or anything, jsut realise most comments are toungue in cheek and mean nothing. I could fall asleep ragging my old cars! lol

Wiggle all the wires, if ground is poor or lost the connection to the airbags in teh seat is lost and thats the light for yer. Just wiggle them all. and JULY!!! where do you live!

dunno what all the fuss is about? it just comes off, so long as the last one wast tightened like a bastid before! lol

cool, take some pics!!! or get them to! please please please!:D

well, i jsut assumed it was as they all get that banging noise.

wiggle the wire under the seat. If the light goes out temporarily its the cable and a bad earth from it.

lol.......no idea.......i thought the knocking was hapenning to all 172 derivatives. to top cup with the nut built in is metal and the rubber is for no particular reason apart from scratches. The rubebr rin under it is jsut tough rubber. hmmm....this is where pic would be dead useful at...

should take 5ltrs to fill to the top line......you werent on an incline were you?

port and polish......i hate those words! lol..... Drop the polish mate.....it doesnt work.

two seconds to replace the pedal assembly as the TPS is in on teh pedal, replace the throttle body and cahnge ECU to a MK1 item as the MK2 item takes care of the idle control and throttle opening speeds rather than a linear cable control, then splice into the loom to place the potentiometer...

ill never break though :D and youll never have to clean tha b*****d thing!

would like to see tha cam details....... but i dont see it improving anything much.......

but i;ve never seen any wear on tha actual turret, nor any of the bearings/bushes. or are we talking of the top nuts incorporated into the cups that will be knocking on it?

for the mk1 only....cable

You know ploycarbonate..... it doesnt shatter....its just flexes. hence the inpact resistant. weather the rest of the car would survive is another matter. If you were running a std car then you would have to replace a sheld load of panels PLUS the damaged chassis and suspension due to the...

nicely sorted!

elongated on which side of the strut?

do they make the 4" slash for it? or did you ask very nicely?

look at what you have on your car.

um.......k a lighter shell which would follow the cars philosophy, also the fact that its almost impact resistant and no more expensive to replace than the fibreglass labour intensive shells they come with. Think before ye speak!