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Tim if you read, i said "hope you get it sorted" as in i was not trying to disuade him. I know how touchy people get on some topics. I too am here to share knowledge, and after owning the MK1/MK2 and now have a cup on the way i feel i have some say.
Im all for mods, but im also for saving...
um, you still have to do that procedure to take out the driveshaft to get to the inner gaiter. I think he means you can move it off the gearbox splines but you dont have to take it physically off the car, you can work on it in situ.
Rhys, they need to share the same axis values. Some places print torque and BHP values on diff X axis.
THey should cross at 5252rpm, but there is always a leeway simply because RR resolution isnt very high.
you know you want a clapped out old RUFF 964 turbo!
besides, its only one of the fastest things round the ring!
hmmmm......ever though of a Toyota AE86 with the 4AGZE engine. RWD, std LSD, loads of parts, cheap, fantastic.......im rebuilding one in HK but body panels arent cheap.
you have torque steer probs!!??
There was a post along these lines a while ago, but i dont think many people would be up for the 1000+ quid to eliminate a problem that doesnt exist.
Would be a project though.
Hope you get it sorted!
NItrous, yum. Ive got N20 on my MK1 XR2. The engine is in pricipal neigh on 50 yrs old.
This jsut prooves that N20 doesnt blow up engines, poor setting up blows them up.
As long as your engine is in good nic and there are no pre-existing damage to the rods mostly then you cna use N20 with...
I will be, when a certain cheque arrives here....lol
then its off to the woods where i can sunbath in teeny little speedos with no worries......i get a fair few complaints doing it on the pavement here.
yea.....ok.....headwork in a head that dont need to be worked in conjuction with a TB that dont flow any more than std so the head wont get any benefit except at low rpm (if they did a good job) where peak power isnt made, but that induction kit and higher inlet temps on an extreemly temp...
LOL!!! this is GREAT!!! im sorry, but i love some silly comments put up, 12 hrs of the forum and i come back to this...hehehe....
Firstly, yes it is childish, pedantic and rather repetitory, but hell, its fun.
My comments which might of sparked it off. When i say lowering, most of you know...
There is no Renault F4PA engine and the F4P is a 16V crossflow design.
A pic of your engine would help alot.
The V6 engine.
LOL!!! if you can find one, expect to pay ALOT, and what would you do with it? youll need more than jsut the engine if you want to do a conversion. the whole rear...
lol..........the ol endura eh!
thats what i hate about the old crossflow design, changing heads etc is so easy, but change the cam!!!!! god , out comes the engine.
You running a simplex or duplex chain?
I dont know which to use, its on a 1760 running a 234-244 cam, 41.3 BVH, std ratio...
The F4P was used in the megane 1 and Laguna 1, yours is a 16V yes?
There is no F4PA, but there are several varients of the F4P
Check over the cylinder head/water pump/cylinder block for any markings of the original manufacturer.
Even if it is a renault engine, you will need to know the...
It really is that easy, its just the amount of unbolting and bolting you need to do, and remember where everything came from!!!!!! lol
Took me 2 days of chilled work with a mate standing by chatting.
But it was on the side of the rd with 1 jack, 2 axle stands, no crane and a toolbox. Make...