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Thread bump to see if there's any new info out there & maybe contribute something useful - got a really really cheap 172 to daily, the pas pump sounds like it's dying & as I'm doing the belts on it I might as well replace the pump too. So no track use and I'm preferring to be 3.14-key as I've...

Just to add, don't buy the aux belt kit if your Cup doesn't have air con

They're still available on Camskill for £69.50, the Nankang's are only any good for dry track use & even then they're pretty mediocre & marginally better than normal road tyres on track. I've had my 172 Cup for 6 years and only ever had PS3's or ZV7's on it, I can safely say that I've not...

Once that's dried I'd suggest cramming a bead of silicone or something similar into the bottom lip of it just to stop anything from being able to get in there & just sit & make it rot

It's actually just in the foot well at the top of the brake pedal so it's not too bad, just 4 13mm nuts and a connecting rod with a split pin

Was an absolute c**t to remove and that was with it split in half, you need to take the engine mount off & pull the engine forwards to make enough room Probably a lot less of a c**t to do if you've got someone to help though

Yes, lucky for me it did it while I was changing the brake fluid rather than while driving

Here's a selection of pics from when I had to piss around with the same problem I couldn't find a new one at all and the new parts I could find weren't the same When I finished repainting it I filled the lip around the bottom with silicone sealant to try & stop anything like spilt brake fluid...

I can show you what the other side will look like and just like the master cylinder, the servo is another thing that I found impossible to find

Nope, I ended up getting a used 1 from someone that was breaking a cup

I'd get in touch with Nightingale's & ask about them fitting your cams as they build the engines to order & don't have them on the shelf ready to go so it's no extra effort on their part

Yes the ebay link is for Nightingale's

If for any reason you need to do any kind of work to the cooling system then it's well worth the time & spending £120 on a set of silicone hoses as a while you're in there thing but as the guy above said, if it's purely a toy kind of car, if it aint broke don't fix it Although I must point out...

Compression test would be the next thing I'd do as you won't get anything more definitive than that. As for the cost of a rebuild (I've just done one on my Cup) it's a case of how long is a piece of string with the "while you're in there" bits 🤣 I got lucky with my cylinder head, it cost...

If it's not rotten then fixing it is deffo your best course of action, especially as it's a Cup, it's worth saving @RichValver is in south Wales & knows a few Clio people in your neck of the woods so might be able to point you in the right direction

I'd say go back to the good old fashioned comparison sites & see what they come up with. For the last 5 or 6 years now, the likes of Flux, Greenlight, KM etc have been utter dogshit on price for me and even worse when compared to what pops up with the generic crap from comparison sites. I put...

You can drill a new hole in that part so you can use R5 engine mounts for proper subframe mounting

Got a bit of mapping done today

Derbyshire force for you, they did the same for me on the Rover, proceed direct to fine, do not pass go, gimme £100 Was at a car meet in Derby with lots of coppers there, I didn't mind too much as it was amusing to watch all the badmanz have to rip of their illegal tints & other s**t at the...

I don't think it will, I suspect that might actually be a 172 cup shaft Ph1 are the shortest, then 172 cup followed by ph2 - I don't know the actual lengths but according to what I could find on Autodoc for the passenger shaft ph1=625mm, 172 cup=640mm, ph2=657mm There's a guy on the Facebook...

Pretty sure they're the exact same parts, it's the 172 Cup and 182 Cup shocks that are stiffer and the 182 Cup that have different bolt spacing

There's quite a lot of adjustment available on the adjuster rod so I'd look at adjusting that a bit more Also worth looking at the handbrake levers on the calipers, I had it on mine that although the levers were moving as they should, the piston in the caliper wasn't moving enough so fitted a...

Is it the same guy from the GTR kebab microwave video at Bedford?

The servo in my pic is the 1 that split itself open so that bit was already easy to disassemble 🤣 The rod the pedal attaches to is really easy to remove, it sits inside the plastic sleeve & is held in place with the 2 black clips which are then secured into place by the circlip spring thing...

I thought the 182 master cylinder couldn't be used because it only has 2 ports where the non abs one from the Cup has 4 ports? I was thinking more along the lines of the piston inside the MC being in a different position requiring a different length rod to press it while maintaining the same...

I I'm thinking this could also be related to the master cylinder being different on the Cup - I could also be talking a load of b****cks but it's something that seems plausible from my experience

You can't use sensible logic like that with French cars :ROFLMAO: You'd think that's the case but there really are a load of things that are annoyingly unique to the cup - which I have discovered the hard way - and probably a load I don't know about too. A brilliant example of this kind of...

If I was in this situation again I'd be getting my hands on some other servos & dismantling them to measure & compare stuff inside (I was about to scrounge some from a local scrappy that had a load of pov spec Mk2's in) with a view to making a good 1 that fits & works. As far as I can think...

You've got no chance of restoring yours, the rust has completely compromised the metal at the point it needs to be it's strongest (that's why it split in 2) it's just like rust anywhere else on the car, the only way to repair it is to chop it out & replace the metal itself. On top of that you...

Not sure if the silicone is visible in these pics tbh but you get the jist of what I was trying to do