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it's one of those two closer to the engine (from the total of five which hold the plenum to the lower inlet, three towards the grille and two towards the engine)

I have a missing bolt there, but it's been like that for about one year. It had been over-tightened and the thread was gone. I guess that means a new lower inlet if I wanna screw another bolt in right?

I'm a bit scared not to damage the poor guy's stuff now if they're so sensitive. guess there isn't a certain way to get them out safely

will 172 sensors work? I wanna try what I've said above

the map sensor has two tiny gaskets(maybe the o-rings you are talking about?), one of them was lightly damaged. but the thing is, as I said before, I listened closely and the sound gets louder in the inlet air temp sensor area. anyway, I have a friend with a 172 ph2, are these sensors good to...

I think I won't be able to get this problem sorted till the end of next week, you think this can get nasty? should I leave the car for the next couple of days?

brake wise you could get the 1*2 setup like above^ but I wouldn't bother with an engine swap. valvers (even willy's) are pretty cheap these days, and you will probably end up cheaper buying one of those than doing an engine conversion.

yup the offset should be there.

are you sure they are ds 2000, and not 2500?(never heard of ds 2000, I may be wrong though) the 2500 have to be filed down top and bottom in order to move freely in the carrier. about 1 mm of clearance on each side you file will be ok. get rid of the metal shims. word is they catch dirt and...

LOL I wouldn't do that :)) I'm not using google translate but maybe I should :D

got someone to rev the car while i tried to listen up closely. it looked like the sound came from the intake air temp sensor's area. I remember when mounting back this sensor it had one of it's lock pins broken, yet it still went in properly and won't come out easily. can this thing make that...

I would buy such a kit for the noise mainly (which I did). at 150-200 get a used maxogen.

yes it is blanked, but there's a gasket on the plenum, that's what danny was about. anyway, just got out and took out the plenum again, got rid of the silicone and put it back together. of course it's still the same... :mad:

will do, maybe this evening. got to get myself a flashlight :D

yeah the seal is in it's place, but mine had some red silicone on it. you think it would be better to get rid of the red stuff and see how it goes?

hmmm, that is sealed with some high temp silicone right? Odd as I removed the plenum when checked the plugs last spring and didn't get any noise even without repacking with silicone that area.

well at leas I made people laugh on my b-day :D

to clarify this: removed the plenum and painted last saturday. mounted back sunday. monday went for a drive and noticed the revving when braking stuff, but no noise. yesterday went out again and the whistle appeared, along with the revving thing. today nothing changed ...

ok I admit it sounds funny :D the servo hose is the one connecting to the plenum near the TB? I suppose the noise appeared somehow because I took out the plenum 3 days ago to paint it and something has changed when put it back

ok, maybe I'm slower... light me up. already checked bolts, hoses, etc

in this one you can hear how loud it really is. can't really source the noise unfortunatelly

take a look at this video. this sounds louder than I initially thought :(

now a whine can be heard when revs drop down when blipin' the throttle. it seems like the car hates me these days lol

quite a long way from the tailpipes to the cat, some bends too. you sure water could travel that far? can't imagine someone holding the jet long enough on the pipes causing water to reach the cat but people can have bad ideas sometimes lol

checked that, no joy :(

after I got my plenum painted and went for a drive couple of hours ago noticed that if letting the car glide in neutral and braking, the revs go up a bit, in the 1200-1700rpm zone, it's like pressing both (accel and brake) pedals at the same time. otherwise it drives fine. also the idle takes...

can't helix work out a organic uprated unit? something like this: http://k-tecracing.com/show_product.asp?id=1101&appid=2 I have this and it's 100% driveable. of course it bites a little harder than the original but you get used to it soon. the pressure plate is the same as the paddle unit they...

they feel smooth when I cross my fingers on, no brush marks either (the rough original surface also helped to get an even finish) a better pic here: ignore the second pic, can't remove it I dunno why

had the calipers painted the same. and the black went on the discs areas exposed to rust. so already had the paint and put it to use don't know why but didn't want to paint the guard red

that's if you fit an induction or maybe matched inlets but the power gains after fitting cams also came from more fuel injected, not to mention that some gets out to the exhaust in a nice flash :D