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LMAO....go race your nova and saxo's........dont race on the road its for idiots. Come back when you can lap comfotabley the ring in under 9mins......2up and full tank of petrol in a std 172.. if you have the bottle to go in the first place. Before you say bragging there are a couple of...

Ok clutch slip, your cars is a nail....LOL BTW- IK/exhaust ? sounds nice

Dont think they are quicker than a cup..........plus the MK1 172 looks poop - back bumper / rear lights / wheels..... But they are cheap.

3rd gear wheelspin LOL

Yoko A048r 205/50 15 at a guess.......

Will try 2nd gear 30mph to 7k in 4th (110mph)...18secs as per vid. Will post tomorrow.

Mark M on the video 30-110 was 18 secs - is that not slow.... Will Try this 30 to limiter in 4th (110), im sure the cup quicker than that. BTW i have 205/45 tyres on so unless the 172 speedo is calibrated different then is should be a fare comparison.

I dont have a card but renewed last year...?

Get the suspension done first then brakes...

Rout cause for me was the std fluid (as i changed and was fine with same discs and pads) but for others im sure its poor pads and that melted compound on the disc. I used DS3000 pads awsome but as you say the dust trashes your wheels....!

Im sure using Turinis and keeping your left foot off the brake then you would be fine...;-)

Take it in when its raining...or wash it and dont dry it...

Great pic..!

Im sure you would get 5.5k minimum.. add 2k 7.5k gets you a cup with 20k miles or less and maybe warrenty.....

All depends on how much you would get for yours. If it costs you 2k to get one with 15k on it then i would swop..

No attachment..

Why i used to have a Williams when they were new and the Cup is quicker...

The fluid has broken down and after cooled and can not give consistant / constant force to the piston when it gets to a certain temp. Any pad transfer imperfection on the disc will cause judder. With the fluid new or upgraded then there is a constant force on the piston and then the piston is...

LOL - no wonder your always slow on track....

Rear end will be too low, raise it slightly and see how it feels.

I hear that the std Willy is not as quick as the 182...

Need better fluid then if your are boiling it, oh and ditch the 182 wheels as they are made of lead and offer minimal cooling this is probabley a main contributor to your problems. Vibration happen after you have boiled your fluid it has cooled down then use the car again get some medium hard...

There not black they are charcoal and look a lot better in the daytime. Also these where on whilst the turinis were getting done.....

That is a major reason holding the car on stinking brakes. The fluid thing is straight up happened 2 or 3 times. Upgraded the fluid and never any issues (using the same pads etc), even after sitting in the ring queue for 10min after a fast lap then back on the circuit 4/5times. Anyways you...

I have only got those symptoms with trashed discs or pads (min thickness) and after fluid boiling.... then driving the car again. After my fluid change even with trashed discs i have never had this but thrashed pads yes. Yes pad deposits is common on some cars the EVO is notoriously bad for...

Sorry its a no......Well 700 including PE2 tyres then.... i.e. no..

Same cup offset turinis.......You can never have enough...! Road and track set.

Judder is more likely to be fluid breakdown...Had the same issue as you describe with std fluid. SS lines and full fluid bleed with Pro race 2000 never had the issues even after lapping the ring then stoping 2/3mins queuing then another lap..

DS2500 are 80quid...! plus i recon they will last longer than 10k. Your maths is a bit out.

Have got a brand new set of silver turinis too..... Always good to have two sets... BTW they are charcoal not black, in the day time just bit lighter than the trophy colour.