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Where are you seeing that? To get your unlock code you just send the key from the "about" box in RSTuner by email and they send you back the unlock code. If you've send them a screenshot of the ECU information too then you'll also be sent the map you want.

Don't worry about it, it's a piece of piss. When you email the unlock code and vin info over to henk he'll send you the files you need. Follow the instructions and job done. Make sure to do the backups first and follow the pc setup instructions - you don't want the laptop going into power...

The handbook says it's fine to run on 95 RON, so it's fine to run on 95 RON. If there was the slightest chance of there being a problem the handbook wouldn't say it was ok.

It says open circuit so most likely either the wiring has failed or the electrical connector to the canister isn't plugged in. It won't affect anything, it's just a pollution control thing.

Tim is the man for that stuff, no doubt about that. :)

Ive heard good things about this software: http://www.videohelp.com/software/Video-Repair-Tool That said, depending on the nature of the corruption it's entirely possible the file is not recoverable. Will the file open at all? If it plays but the image is just a garbled mess then it's more...

Fair play, I think it would always bug me if I was taking one to that sort of power level but I'm not very up to date on the latest thinking in tuning the 2.5T engine. I love a Volvo sleeper, I've had a few tuned T5 ones over the years and they are great fun in an "I really shouldn't be able to...

What about getting the liners shimmed, is that part of the budget? Nice car :)

I'd go for the quick release hub TBH, gives you a lot more options in future and the gloss finish on that wheel won't age well IMO.

Last time I saw one of those it was run by the sales team at an artificial turf company - not a bad idea as it goes ;)

It wasn't putting the EML on, but it was throwing a code that the solenoid wasn't operating. Can't say I've noticed any difference in the car, but less fault codes is always good ;)

Ref the solenoid for the carbon canister, the car was repeatedly throwing a fault code with the electrical plug removed from the solenoid. With it back in there have been no more fault codes.

Uh, have we met? :D

Thanks all, I did wonder if it was a drag thing. I do quite like the look but not sure I want to start butchering the rear bumper. Something to consider.

I've seen a few track day Clios now with holes drilled in the back bumper, usually in the centre of the bumper in a row of five or six, diameter probably about an inch and a half to two inches. Why do people do this? I have a drill, and a long boring Sunday ahead of me, idle hands and all that...

You've downloaded the wrong version of the map. Have a look here: http://www.fastchip.nl/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=22&Itemid=100020 The section you want is: Q: Where can I find the right engine calibration file

Flashing usually means a misfire, so get a code reader on it and find out if it's just one cylinder. If so you can trace it from there by swapping plugs, injectors and HT leads and see which one of those the fault follows. If it's a general/multiple cylinder misfire then usually knackered coil...

If the fuel trims go too far out of whack it should light up the engine warning light. If you still have the RStuner you can check the long term fuel trims and see if the car is trying to compensate for lean running by adding more fuel.

Can't help with the B14's specifically but these are my settings on cooksports, standard cup shocks, PMS solid top mounts and eibach camber bolts. I can't see why the B14's would be so much less adjustable.

Did he maybe mean an additional 1.1 over stock? I'm running over 2 degrees negative with just camber bolts.

It's a really crap mounting system, tons of vibration and thermal expansion/contraction with a fairly hefty lump of metal hanging off some studs. Eventually they shear. I've just removed mine.

Shock top mounts shot? Broken spring? Leaking steering rack/low PAS fluid? Is the car lowered as if it's been massively dropped it could be bump steer. If you bounce test the car can you track the knocking noise down to one corner? Have you had the geometry checked? I know you said it's been...

Oil loss shouldn't affect the A/C operation though? What engine does it have? Could be as simple as an airlock in the cooling system causing overheating if the rad's not been replaced properly.

I've just gone the other way, I.e. From standard to adding camber, and the car is noticeably more of a handful on the road, much keener to tram line and follow camber changes. Doesn't bother me as it's more for track use but I'd say going back to standard will help as long as nothing else is...

I would grab one of these: http://www.serversdirect.co.uk/Hewlett_Packard_HP_ProLiant_MicroServer_Gen8_G1610T_1P_2GB-U_B120i_NHP_SATA_712317-421/version.asp They're a lot more versatile than a NAS box and absolutely dirt cheap with the current cashback deals - under £100. The only downside is...

You could stick with PAYG and get 500mb, 100 mins and 3000 texts for 30 days via a £10 top up on three? Or unlimited data, 300 mins, 3000 texts for £15. Or giffgaff do 500 mins, unlimited texts and 3Gb data for £12. If you're definitely after a new contract check out Quidco, there are often...

@alistairolsen have you tried going via the forums? Unfortunately all the line installs, site visits to fix issues etc are in the hands of BT as with any ISP who uses their infrastructure. Their engineers are a total frigging lottery, I have long and painful professional experience of that :(...

Probably a bit OTT, just wanted to prevent it knocking around too much.

Standard discs and DS2500's on the front, standard discs and pads on the back. I didn't have any issues with brake fade last time out at Combe, but I wasn't hitting them particularly hard. Thruxton next which has at least one very big stop so I thought I'd best have a crack at the cooling.

Duplicate post, for some random reason ;)