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I understand what you're saying.
I've not said anywhere that it's about shaving tenths off lap times or exiting a turn 1mph faster have I?
To me it's about smoothness, balance, and most importantly as I keep my cars for a loooooong time, mechanical sympathy.
Of course downshifts on track are when on the brakes...but the flaw in your argument chip is that you assume you only ever downshift while threshold braking...i.e. as hard as is physically possible.
That is so not the case in my experience.
Take St. Marys at Goodwood for example, a fast right...
But there are always people prepared to pay a premium for a Renaultsport with some odd paint and questionable extras.
On that basis, they've got it bang on.
Do not understand your question...that's exactly what I am doing.
Edit: ignore me. To Joe, as above practice simple rev matching first, forget about being on the brake while you do it.
FLOL at the attention to detail on the rebuild.
Original door mirror on the passenger side, yet one from a 197 fitted on the driver's side...do not match.
LOL
Granted it is not necessary to heel & toe on the road, but on track your car will thank you for it on every single down shift.
On the road, simple rev matching will achieve the same thing.
It is nothing more than rev matching while braking.
Why rev match?
Eliminates unintended and uncontrolled weight transfer when down shifting.
Eliminates wear on the drivetrain and clutch.
Reduces the chance of locking the wheels up.
Get your car up to 50mph and select 2nd gear without...
Been trying it in the 200 and have been struggling a bit. The brake pedal's firm enough, relative pedal positions are OK, but the throttle response compared to my 172 Cup and Ignis is terrible! I give the throttle a stab, nothing happens, then what seems like half a second later the revs climb...
The ECU doesn't think so...the rev limiter is still low for a period AFTER the coolant has reached normal operating temperature.
The higher rev limit is only enabled once the oil's reached it's prime.
I got the Panasonic HDC-SD90 recently, was around £350 IIRC, probably a few places have it cheaper than that now.
Pros;
Flash SD memory so no HDD shutting down due to vibrations on track (my last Sony was a nightmare for doing that)
Full 1080p
Proper lens, very wide angle as standard (unlike...
I live about two miles from that postcode. Considered buying from him when I was looking for my 200, but he didn't have the right spec.
As above, I think you'll be OK.
It's a shame the Igins is a pup looks wise.
If that article above accompanied pictures of almost any other warm hatch it'd be a no-brainer, Especially when you consider what you can pick a recent low-miler up for.
I love the old skool in-car footage, they've got gear levers, clutch pedals, and rev-matching to master while maintaing perfect balance,
Hero driving for sure.
I think so. All the camcorders and still cameras I've owned over the eight years I've had the mount have fitted with no problems.
It's got the industry standard (1/4 inch I think) screw post mount.
Not every time. Not for normal mundane commuting.
It tends to be when I've blagged a couple of hours from the wife so just head off across the downs for a blast. On this video it was because I'd met with a load of fellow CSers for the PH meet, before heading cross country to see my old man's...
This is correct, best treatment is to drive it as soon as possible;
Oil gets warm from the engine heating up.
Until the engine heats up the oil is not warm.
When the oil is not warm you are doing the maximum possible damage/wear to your engine.
Burning fuel is the only way you will heat...