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Yeah it shouldn't require that, it is usually as easy as you say. Should be ok to give it a helping hand. Just check and check again once you've finished.

That must be all it's got :rolleyes: Sounds like you've done everything right.

Don't go anti-clockwise, pretty sure it says not to do that in the manual. Might find you'll be able to get it bang one once you've spun the pulleys round (with the crank and cams still locked) to even the tension on the belt.

I used to hand polish with AF Tripple back in the day.

Could be high resistance in those solder seal connectors?

https://www.cliosport.net/threads/renaultsport-clio-172-phase-1-sunflower-yellow-54-380-miles-%C2%A314k.854230/#post-12780949

Wilwoods fit under 15's a lot better than Brembo.

Yeah mate. EBC RP1 my mate uses were just over £100 i'm sure.

Wilwood Midilite is also another option worth looking at. Mate has them on his Cup and they're decent. Pads are a lot cheaper than Brembo and probably easier to change, not that it's difficult on Brembo.

Not a glorified go kart track then = Llandow 👀

Depends on the light. Some of the high power Milwaukee and Unilite ones will blind you on full power, so you have to turn them down 😂

Claimed 4 hours on high and 8 hours on low on a 4ah battery.

Outside, under the scuttle. Don't tend to see many faults with that plug tbh its well sealed.

Guessing he means the one near the washer bottle.

Look for a sports cat that uses German made converters. Pure Motorsport might do one.

Open circuit suggests broken wire or it's unplugged, but then how does it drive ok 😅 The cruise fault is likely related to it.

Front air inlet flap, what's that? Throttle body?

That will clean up easily. Get yourself a drill brush attachment, some carpet cleaner and a wet vac.

Likely an emissions issue if it's a solid light. Lambda sensor or the sports cat is junk. A half-decent diag machine will be able to tell you.

This any use? https://www.elektroda.com/rtvforum/topic3293667.html The guy had what looks like the same issue. Solution is roughly translated from Polish: As it turned out, the fuse 70 burned in such a strange way that the current showed on the unfastened relay and at the start as the genie...

They're only in Golborne, so you could pick some up from them.

The Wera one I've seen is only 2-6Nm and that's around £70. I'd do as Dan said, 1/4" torque wrench with a long extension. I use a cheap one which is 5-25Nm from Machine Mart I think.

Cheers, crying now 😂 Mine are the adhesive lined heat shrink ones if that makes them any better? 😅 https://hilltop-products.co.uk/heat-shrink-butt-connectors-various-colours.html

I'd say it's a good 10p a litre difference here.

Believe the -10 in the name denotes the gap, so 1.0mm

About £4 over a full tank then.

May as well run it on Tesco 99. Way cheaper than V Power.

What fuel are you on? Shouldn't be getting any knock really on these.

Find the relevant engine and it will tell you the correct one. Guessing it's 1.2 non turbo? In which case it will be the NGK LZKAR7B

https://www.ngkpartfinder.co.uk/catalogues/cars/search/spark-plugs/RENAULT/CLIO/2010/