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Fit ARP rod bolts while you're there. Could be one of the causes for letting go, especially at high rpm.

Jubilee method isn't that bad if you have a heavy duty one and preshape it. Imagine there must be a fair bit of pressure involved to lever the alternator back in place to be able to get the top bolt in.

ACF-50 is ok if you keep topping it up. XCP Rustblocker performs better in real world tests.

Not bad, but says next generation, yet they look like old models. If you want the latest, these are a little bit more - https://www.powertoolmate.co.uk/power-tools/milwaukee/cordless-powertool-kits/milwaukee-m18fpp2a3-302p-fuel-m18fpd3-combi-m18fid3-impact-twin-kit-2-x-3ah-high.htm

Get it tested or just replace. Cheap enough for a decent Bosch S4 from Tayna https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/bosch/s4001/

Not sure on ring specs, I'll see if I've got any documentation on it.

For the head bolts it's 20Nm from the middle outwards. Usually do the first 20Nm and let it settle for a bit and then recheck. Then do 180° if you haven't got a torque angle wrench.

3 times suggests it's not the sump, surely?

Check coilpack and throttle body wiring/plugs. Someone at the track will probably be able to sort it, there always a Clio about. Where are you on?

Is that a random wheel bolt on the front, or is it coming loose?

You could get that pointing straight enough by eye surely.

As if you had 3 s**t ones 😂

I'd send it back.

They'd definitely bend without the pulley locking tool 😅

He's probably not used to the swivel hub setup. He'll soon see for himself if he was to turn the steering.

Don't get the pulley locking tool with Laser kit.

Tell the tester to stop being a dickhead and use his brain. You have them routed correctly. This is factory location.

No mate. If it's a fault with the speedo clock, it could be a faulty solder joint or something internal. As Jon said, the only UCH fault out of the list is potentially the wipers.

The Speedo/Rev clocks

If it looks like Matt's picture then it's normal.

If it doesn't work, just swear at it more 😂

Try the jack trick next time, enough load on it that it's almost picking the car up and it usually does the job.

Yeah Diesel Pump Repair are the ones to use.

Do you have an impact gun? Won't need to counter hold the TRE thread with an Allen if you have a gun to buzz them off. If they spin just stick a jack under the bottom of the ball joint and add some preload.

Quite a list that 😂

Yeah that's why i've asked if he's got a picture to make sure.

The OP years ago was on about the inside and around a 1/3rd of the disc being rust which isn't right. Should be no more than yours there.

Yeah that's normal.

Have you got a picture of them?

Having had 10 years to think about it, i think his caliper/sliders might have started to seize 😅