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To the book parts are £45, £30 for a set of NGK PFRE6-10's from ebay and £15 for the upper/lower inlet gasket and that doesn't really need to be replaced unless you damage it.
Alternators not too bad from what I remember. Fair few things to get off before you can change it and you'll need a new aux belt.
Drop the left hand engine mount out and the dogbone so you can move the engine about, front bumper off, take the fuel rail guard off, then aux belt belt off, then...
Thats not a valver, it in fact looks like a 1.4 energy lump with a different inlet manifold on it. Doesn't look like an RSi lump the manifold is similar (same?) as the inlet from one.
Cat D means its been written off, nothing will be recorded you haven't got to say a thing. And as long as its been repaired properly theres no problem with that imo.
You'll have to change the headunit, i'd recommend an alpine as their stalk adapter (£50) for it works really well. I've got a 9887R in mine and it matches the dash pretty well imo, and the display/stalk works really well tells you loads of things. I'll get some pics later if you want?
As for...
5w30 should be fine in it tbh, first put some 5w40 in it as stated in the handbook. Then change the oil pressure switch if its leaking as it probably leaking out the body of the switch like mine did and thats letting the pressure drop in the switch and putting the light on.
As you've already found theres no cam sensor as the ECU works out cam position from the crank position, for the reletive little cost change the crank position sensor first and i'll bet thats what it is.
I could go with that being the problem seeing as its not a complete loss of compression, wouldn't like to say whether thats salvageable though without a slight bore and oversize pistons which I don't think exist.
No it won't i'm not talking about remaps etc, the only thing it'll give you is access to the OBD error codes which won't clear most of the lights on the dash only the OBD fault light and give you some live data. Nothing else, all the config stuff is only avaliable with a renault clip computer...
In my mind then to do it you'd need all the load bearing stuff from a 172, front wishbones w/balljoints, hubs, struts. Then you'd be running the same setup as a 1*2?
Balljoints are different and the RS is widetracked with just the wishbones iirc. Pretty sure the hubs are interchangeable, although imo they're still not anything amazing good but not amazing. Although i've since been poisened by 4 pots.