Search results

Ah see what you mean now, doesn't look promising. The old case is going to be questionable though isn't it? If the crank was bent surely its going to have damaged the crankcase somewhere? Hairy muff, haven't taken anything apart to this level in ages and I couldn't remember it from before...

Is there a notable ridge or texture change where the rusted bit it? I imagine the piston doesn't come that far up or it would've rubbed that away by now so I doubt its contrbuting tbh. I was under the impression that you should've be able to see the hone crosshatch pattern at all after a while...

Can't be doing it wonders but I don't know whether that'd constitute the drop in compression, its been honed recently too obviously it have new rings in recently?

bump

Brembo HCs/Max and DS2500s would be a good start i'd imagine if your going to keep the standard calipers.

http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/pioneer-tsq131c-renault-p-5922.html Those are the only ones that are a direct replacement.

Well the only casualty as long as you don't run it anymore will be the dephaser pulley which are iirc about £120 from memory, unfortunately you'll have to change the cam/aux belt at the same time as they need to come off and you shouldn't retension a used belt. If you go for a full aux/cam kit...

First one sounded like: http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=294024 But seems fine on the second one which it wouldn't do so pass.

Sounds very much like the VVT dephaser pulley being shot. Still won't be cheap unfortunately.

Theres no gasket and its a cam out job to reseal it as the cover has the top half of the cam bearing cast in it. If its just coming out the bolts you can try taking one out at a time putting some sealant round it and replacing it its a 50/50 chance.

Thats actually bad if you've done 4 laps with no PAS fluid, good chance the pump will be shot too.

The ballasts are no where near that money, they're about £150 tops iirc.

I'd bet its blowing out the cat/decat to centre section joint.

Pah, I can get 30 round town in the meggy what are you doing to it? lol

Bottom line is whilst it isn't a very good idea unless he stacks it he'll most likely get away with it. And even then they should still pay out to the 3rd party he'll just get spitroasted, even he's even going to bother insuring it?

They've very skinny as new and they take ages to wear down to change levels as they do hardly any braking, talking probably 80k+ before you'd need to think about changing them in normal use. Seem to remember MarkCup's lasted towards the 100k mark.

Is it blowing out the cat to exhaust joint? The clamp style thing on the 182 is shite and a pig to get to seal, we had a right ordeal with Has's janspeed when we fitted that. God knows why they changed from a bolted flange like the 172 never had any blowing problems with my magnex. Flange ftw!

Limp modes probably been caused by something getting water in it when its been steam cleaned, they've caused another problem cleaning up another.

Ah missed that one, i'll blame that on just finishing a week of nights and i've been up since 4pm yesterday. Good chap, didn't think you'd have any trouble with him tbh.

2 man method ftw. Otherwise just get an easibleed kit.

Checked/Changed the passenger side? The boot one is common to fail.

http://gallery.getflat.co.uk/v/My_Cars/2003_Renaultsport_Clio_172/Cambelt/DSC00243.JPG.html?g2_imageViewsIndex=2 CTS is the black plug sticking out the thermostat housing below the cam locking tool

Unscrew it and put the new one in quickly before you loose too much coolant or draw air into the system, its located on the righthand side of the block in the thermostat housing. You'll need to remove the airbox (iirc) to get to it. Don't let the coolant res level fall below the bottom hose or...

Just checked for you, they're about £25 but theres a section of wire that has to be changed if its an older sensor.

Nope does point to rings. I'd keep the same block and just change the rings unless anythings wrong with the block. You got hold of ben_p about this yet? (just being a nosey git)

The crank position sensor is about £40 or so iirc. Take the airbox out and and its easy enough to get to to change.

ECU wise i'd go for the rstuner, same thing less cost.

Colour coding would finish it imo, and whats with the 2.0l badges? :S They look completely out of place.

corrected ;) Its not a 2.0l so personally I wouldn't put 2.0l badges on it, just get some 1.6 badges sprayed up in the 1*2 chromed style.