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Currently managing 30mpg in the 225 driving mostely round town with some NSL roads can hit 35mpg or so after cruising at 70 for a while, drops to 20-25mpg stop/start driving though. Turbo ftw!

Thats what I was going along the lines of, if it isn't getting and fuel/spark then theres a good change its the CPS.

If it goes anyway when you depress the clutch pedal and comes back when you release the clutch i'd go with release bearing as dave says.

The fog light is nothing related really, thats just moisture in the back lights making it track across. Clean them up and that'll go away, if you disconnect the clusters in turn that'll enable you to see which side it is. Starting wise, getting fuel/spark?

That will 100% be buckled and not worth repairing. I took a far smaller chuck out of a superturismo and that wrote it off.

Cav = Cavalier

The boiling water is just a test if its fecked it'll just tell you, for the cost its probably worth just changing. You could probably get away with it in the summer but it'll take a lot longer to warm up, in the winter it'll be a pig. Best to just change the thermostat.

What do you mean by deactivated? When you depress it?

Not supposed to be there so your fine, has it had an aux belt changed on it recently? Wondering if someones dropped it after using it to operate the belt tensioner.

Simple way to prove the thermostat (although I don't know at what point they open on a festa) is to take it out and put it in boiling water to see how it reacts. Should obviously be closed when cold and open as X degrees c.

I'm in now, liking it so far.

On a seperature motor, you'll have to take to wipers off to get that side of the skuttle panel up to disconnect them. Just change the sodding things like I said ;), thinking about it you could pull the washer fuse (i think theres one just for the pump but it might do other things too) and clamp...

Its banter, grow some balls and get over it :rasp:.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300236714311

Thats how they are.

The temp senders fail and cause the gauge to go all over the shop, although it'll make the car run rougher due to the ecu thinking it needs to run the cold start map. Does the top rad hose get hot as it should?

no

+100

Not so hot when your travelling in NSL 60 roads and your pissing everyone off behind you who'll try to overtake at any (possibly dangerous) oppertunity. Nothing winds me up more than idiots that are incapable of driving doing 35/40 in a 60, although 99% of the time they're old gits. Also takes...

What year is it? If its a Ph2 then it won't have an ISCV.

Had my renewal come through ealier in the in year when I still had the 172 for £1500 from flux, never even did any other quotes as I knew they'd be the cheapest by a mile (i'm 20). Rang them up and told them admiral had quoted cheaper and they dropped it to £1300, then promptly put it back up...

You can get them direct from ITG for 329 which is cheaper than most iirc. Great piece of kit. http://www.itgairfilters.com/maxogensystems.asp?section=maxogen&ID=19

Not brilliant but got this one, Has will probably be your man with that behemoth thing he was snapping away with.

Doubt it tbh. maybe/probably when on track/pressing on.

Get a 1.2TCE engine if your that bothered about it.

Get the water pump changed too as they always leak after a while. And don't take it back to the same garage!

As long as its complete with all the bulbs/starter/ballast about £100-£150 condition dependant, SRB sell them for £175 new iirc.

Do a search this has been covered a million times before. Cut the connectors off and solder the wires together is the short answer.

+1 probably lost the ignition live somwhere.

Switch fecked then.