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Had a frustrating day today...the driving standard wasn't much cop, and I kept ending up being no. 11 in the queue, when 10 is the circuit maximum so a lot of time was wasted sat watching everyone go by :(
Finally managed to hook up and run with/against Nik in his Trophy in the last...
Could be the rust getting scraped off by the pads for the first mile or two? I get that every morning.
If you're tyres are going to last 24k I'd be surprised if you'd even 2/3 worn the pads down.
Can't speak for the discs, but Tarox Fast Road & Track pads are sh*te.
One track day + 3k road miles and they'd almost gone. Also, when putting new discs on, Mike @ Rentech noticed that both of them had a huge crack running all round about 1mm in from the edge of the pad material. Would have...
That's exactly what I used to say.
Having just completed my IAM training, I now say...
Learn to read your environment, the messages are all around you, act upon what you see/feel/hear/smell in good time and overall be smooth and restrained...unless road and traffic conditions allow of...
It's different for every gear I think.
If I change up before 7000k from 1st, I'm then below 5k in 2nd, and it takes a second or two to really get going.
2nd is lower, about 6800 or so, and it gets less for each gear.
In 4th, about 6200 gets you into the meat of 5th's torque.
Go do some trackdays before messing with the suspension...find out what the standard set-up is really capable of before spunking a wad over some fancy springs/dampers.
While you're there...get some tuition. That'll make you a much faster/better driver than any amount of aftermarket add-ons...
You'll find that the rev limit is set lower when the engine is not yet fully up to temperature...so if you're bouncing off the limiter at 6,800rpm...go easy on the loud pedal until it's properly warmed through.
The thud? I get that when I f*** up my gear-changes, but when smooth, no problem...
I drive pretty smoothly most of the time, the traffic doesn't allow anything else. But on each journey, I make sure it goes through the gears properly at least once.
I've always run my Cup on Optimax since new, and normally by now would have 37-38 showing on my mpg avg.
After 2/3 of its...
Never had this before...I've always changed insurer every year as they always seem to take the piss when it comes renewal time and normally there's a £50 increase or something like that.
I'm with NU Direct...last year, fully comp was £389...this year...£339.
Can't work out why...
If I had no mortgage my Cup would be getting similar treatment...I think the spec sounds fantastic.
Jap turbo barges? Give me instant throttle response and a lightweight hatch any day of the week.
This engine mount mod that seems to cure it...does the modification itself...
1. ...actually stop the engine moving or
2. ...relocate the engine just slightly so it doesn't catch whatever it was banging on in the first place?
I think that is Yasers Cup...isn't it? I know it's back on standard wheels...but when I last saw him at Goodwood, I remember having a good look at the air feed into his Maxogen - it was exactly like in the pictures.
Original equipment on Cups (and 172's IIRC?).
They last quite well, grip quite well, and so far, seem to be nice and gentle at the limit just like the 539's...but with loads more grip.
2x Continental SportContacts from Gareth - £40 total (as good as new)
1x Continental SportContact from lawrence - £35 (brand new)
1x Continental SportContact from Fred - £25 (almost new, certainly not been fried by Yozza)
= 4x Continental Sportcontact tyres, 195/45/16 - for a total of £100...
I know what you mean ^^^
But if you're smooth with them, you rarely ever need to use the brakes...and carrying an extra 10-15mph (compared to your average driver) through bends/roundabouts/onto sliproads makes a huge difference to how fast they seem.
I used to see how few times I could use...