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Either that or a rear one.

Have you tried driving it first? That might clear it, but not if a sensor is dead.

Not sure on the yellow fuse box ones, but it's not an ideal repair. The one on that grey plug is the power steering pressure sensor.

Not right that. Is that across the battery terminals?

If it's a sensor fault that's been fixed it'll go out on it's own. It may still show up in a scan as a historic fault but the light won't be on.

Try sticking a fine needle in the hole of the jet. Or just upgrade to mist jets.

Make sure your rear shock aren't fucked, that can give a loose rear end feeling. I went from Toyo R1R's to PS3's and had a similar feeling of it feeling a bit floaty at speed. Made me realise how much stiffer the Toyo's must have been. But yeah, PS3's are more than good enough.

See what voltage you're getting when running, then go from there. If it's anything less than 14v+, it's no good.

There is only one wire.

8200251569

Mechanic's dream right there.

It's possible, but not really needed. Who's stealing Clio's these days. Plus the central locking wouldn't work once the power is cut off. Not all of them have key barrel locks in the doors.

Make sure all the cable connections are good and the little exciter wire that plugs into it.

A day or two, so depends on their price per hour but certainly £500+

Engines are somewhere around £1000-2000 used for these.

@Brigsy has a bit more experience on the Mk3 Megane platform. What do you reckon Jon?

Hard to say what's caused it, but by the sounds of it it's stuck a leg out of bed (chucked a rod out). Is it remapped or completely standard?

When you took a picture of that, did those nuts say cheese 😂 That's what they'll do when you come to remove them haha

Have you tried scanning for codes to see if there's any stored?

Check that it hasn't just come unplugged somehow. Can't see why it would just suddenly fail.

I'm not sure sorry. Can you find a Renault parts breaker over there? 8200071210 should be the part number.

Just the SERV light only is usually that yeah. Make sure auto lights are set and stick your hand over the sensor, see if they come on.

I'm sure I tested the resistance of a new one once and it was around 2000 ohms.

They don't even need a bolt to hold them in with how tight those c***s are 😂 Bosch one is only £30 ish, so not too bad if you have to replace it again.

I believe Pure Motorsport over here used to weld them, but seeing those spots now, maybe they have changed :unsure:

Although looking at this, it looks like it is like the Quaife where you have slots machined into the CW to accept ball bearings that sit in the recess

Not sure on the machining, but @NorthloopCup will know. But i do know when fitting M Factory diffs, the crownwheel is to be tig welded once pressed onto the diff.

Not many cheap scanners will read ABS on these.

A decent quality one should do the job.

Have you compressed it with a big jubilee?