Search results

Not sure what the clicking noise is 🤔

Not sucking air in past the bleed nipple threads is it? Stick some grease around the bleed nipple threads to seal them up a bit.

Hmm... It's definitely one of the laps, even says it in the description. I'll have to watch it again.

Yep 👍🏻

Sorry, 1:19 it was.

A lad called Jamie Tonks has done a 1:18 I think it was in a 172 with 195bhp and 850kg. I'll have to find the video.

Best way is to get the 5L pagid fluid from Euro and run it all through, 1L per caliper. Then if you want high temp stuff for track, just rebleed again with whatever stuff you want. Should be easy without abs. Try tapping the calipers with a rubber/plastic hammer as you're bleeding them...

Just done the cambelt on mine and it was 18 months overdue, so 6 and a half years old. It looked almost new after only doing 5k miles a year. The aux belt is the one that will cause problems. Mine was just 3 years old and looked worn, however the tensioner was mint.

I've got the 1/2" mid torque yeah. Plenty of power with 850nm loosening and 600nm tightening. Not many jobs where you'd need much more unless it's heavy plant machinery imo.

Haven't done yet no.

Stubby has arrived to replace it's older brother.

Not something to do with the servo vacuum hose from the inlet to the servo is it? Like on another recent thread... They like to melt sometimes. Tell tale signs are a hard pedal and lack of assistance.

Doesn't look like anything I've seen before 🤔 Not behind the engine anyway.

One looks like 3/8 drive and the star looks 1/2 but can be put on different positions with it being star shaped.

They both want their channels taking down tbh, it's for the best.

Yes should be a straight swap. They're both TL4 boxes 197 is TL4-024 200 is TL4-031

Served me well.

Well if you plan on replacing it, make sure you do it with one that has the same part number or barcode on it. That way it won't need any coding to the car, it should be a straight swap.

Anyone fancy an older 3/8 sub compact? The model is M12BIW38-202C It's ideal for the smaller job, the M6, M8, M10. Not really sure what's its worth... Maybe £70? More details on it here https://www.bigredpowertools.co.uk/milwaukee-m12biw38-202c Looking at upgrading to the 3/8 stubby.

If it's been set off in an impact, it can be sent off and reset. There's services on eBay that offer that. Are you sure it's not just the seat wiring that's causing the service lights? It's very common.

😂 It's just a 20mm hole up in the footwell, comes out about where the abs pump is. It's a bit rig up but if it works, right?

That pic taken from under the scuttle panel?

Where's that 😂 Mine didn't look to have nearly as much room as that 🤔

I tried this when I was fitting the oil gauge. Fucked it off and just drilled a hole and stuck a grommet on it, put the wires through and then stuck some black sealant in to seal it up proper.

Let me know if you want me to have a go at some point.

Was going to say this. I went for the long neck, just so I have more options.

If you're near me in Warrington, I can have a go with RSTuner... No guarantees 😂

When are you at Oulton? I'm there 5th December.

Yeah it must be up there around 400 or so. I've checked the temperature of mine after a cool down and they were around 200 I think.

Yeah, although you won't really see those higher temperatures for sustained periods on a track day so the ds1.11 have a higher coefficient from cold.