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Yeah be fine as long as you don't get steel rivnuts. They take a fair bit of force compared to the aluminium and others.

No idea, but that first one you could take it out and stick an M6 rivnut in there instead.

Yeah they 100% make a difference! It's only the 172 Cup that they do very little due to the lack of ABS. On the 182 they do probably 30% of the effort i'd say. Also, the higher friction pad you go, the more the heat will be transferred into the brake fluid. I run Castrol SRF, it's not cheap...

Swan neck ring spanner you want so it clears the lip.

I use PBS and find them decent enough. Not that expensive? Are you running them front and rear? They need the rears to work their best.

Higher friction coefficient pads will improve the feel. CL RC6, DS1.11 or Winmax W5/W6 Any of them will be plenty.

Yeah Yuasa are decent batteries. Not sure how they compare to the Bosch Ah and CCA rating wise.

Most likely dead. You can get chargers that have a repair function that runs a special cycle, but they're like £100+ so a battery would be cheaper.

2 minute job replacing the coilpack (y)

Not visually really no, unless theres like burn marks if it's managed to arc across or something.

Usually the coilpacks that go, the leads are normally fine unless they get trapped under the inlet plenum. Unplug each one and have a look in the ends for any cracks or splits.

Speak to Nick at Pure, he's really helpful.

Are yours actually dead or just wanting to replace them? I'd probably go for some Magnecor ones, if you can't find any OEM ones cheap enough.

Yeah they're not cheap 😅

Two buckets with grit guards for starters, if you haven't already. Carpro Reset shampoo A decent wash mitt, Gyeon, Gtechniq, Carpro A nice drying towel, Klin Duo or similar

Leads are now NLA. But you can still get them online, they're made by BERU.

Make the step up and go for a full frame dslr, like a used 5d mk3. Or maybe the EOS M platform, they seem decent from the quick go i've had of one.

@gally will be your man to either recommend somewhere or even do a coating for you.

If you registered the tool it will have mate.

Klin Korea Duo drying towel is what you want.

Had my belts done today and the exact same bolt was missing out of mine. It has sheared clean off inside at some point. The guy doing it said he's seen loads that have done the same, so it seems a fairly common thing for some reason.

Yeah, slightly different size though. Fronts are 16mm and rears are 18mm I think, or the other way round.

If you want one that will tackle everything, the M18 mid torque is the one to get. It's more compact than the really big heavy hitter. For most things though, the M12 stubby will do it.

Isn't that the outer casing/oil pump cover?

Threads look pretty flat/stripped.

Front 182 seats in mine were 22kg each I think

Cartek GT solid state isolator. Neatest way to do it. I wouldn't bother with anything else...

Yeah I bought one not long ago, not fitted yet but it seems to be the right part.

Febi 10226 on eBay around £15