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Were the belts done before you even bought the car or did you buy it and they then did them on the basis of you agreeing a price?

I was planning on making some titanium brake pad shims to act as heat sheilds for my brother's Megane track car. Now that he's sold it i might look into making some for the Clio. It should dramatically reduce the heat being absorbed into the caliper and therefore the fluid.

No front arch liners, that's it ? Do you hold the brake quite a bit or do you stand on them and off again? Longer braking will generate more heat, but they can take about 800°c.

Here's mine which NorthloopCup did for me over a year ago. 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th gears and synchros were all new, plus the Quaife LSD. Red Line MTL gear oil is the best stuff for these.

It may keep them a bit cooler as the rears will be doing more braking, reducing the load the fronts have to take on their own. Don't think i've been close to cooking mine yet.

Have you got PBS pads in the front and rear? I find they need the rears to compliment the fronts. Fronts on their own probably aren't as good.

b****cks, they owe you an engine for cocking the job up. 12 months from when they did the work.

£2500 sounds reasonable. Sounds like it doesn't need any work doing to it for a while now.

Did the rear discs go back on with the metal spacer than sits behind them?

Looks quality! The edge of the heatshield near the brake reservoir cap looks sharp, watch out for that when unscrewing the cap ?

Buy a replacement, it'll just keep popping off. The ball joint inside will be worn. If you search for clutch pedal link rod for a Clio, you'll find them for sale.

The link rod on the pedal will have popped off.

It lasts 18 months though, so it's worth the investment. I found myself bleeding the Motul 660 after each track day. Typ200 wasn't much different. £48 the SRF can be had for. The Motul was about £30 for a litre. I looked at some Endless RF650 which was £80 for a litre ?

Yeah that's the one. Brake pedal doesn't quite recover as well with Motul 660 so giving this a try.

Flushed the brake fluid with Castrol SRF and scrubbed the new track tyres in.

I bet that's well gone if you delved deeper into the inner rear quarters.

Want them smoking pretty much and then a long cool off drive.

How many stops and at what speed did you bed them in mate? I find a bit of steady driving with a few short stops to get them warm, followed by 10 stops from 100-30mph. Not slamming on though, just medium but constant pressure. Hard braking for short times generates less heat than required.

-3 is plenty, hmm.... Shouldn't be wearing the outside edge at that camber ? Can only think it's the pressure that's done it, causing the temperature rise. I'd try around 28 hot.

I don't think the centre has overheated, just overinflated. Looks to need more camber to stop the edge wear, just waiting for @Greeny. to say what camber he has.

They'll delaminate when overheated. That's what a Dunlop tech told me.

In an ideal world you'd measure tyre temperatures, but the pyrometers aren't cheap. Pressure is just a way of fine tuning to get to the temperature you're looking to achieve. So really, there's no set pressure to use. It's just whatever is needed to get into the temperature window. 70-90c is...

7746 You have to input it using the stalk control on the right of the steering wheel.

Oh, you need to pull the radio out and get a pic of the barcode on the side. If you post the pic in here i'll get a code for you.

What code?

Overheated the outside edge basically, the rubber has blistered. Not been smashing kerbs as well have you ? Wearing the centre indicates overinflated too. Can get away with less than 30psi with DZ03G's.

Not that much difference between 170 and 180 degrees in the grand scheme really.

In today's world yeah with modern dual mass items now too. I think the lightened Clio ones are about 3kg.

Cup spoiler is 3.5kg, standard spoiler is 2.5kg.

The old plate with the number at the end? The number is the regional code of where it was registered.