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Alex will help I'm sure.

Yeah, although you could rip the boot. Is it in two parts that boot, I can't remember.

Yeah, just needs popping back in and the gearbox oil topping up with 75w80 gear oil. I should have warned you about it before when saying about standing on the hub to lever it down to get the bolts in.... ? The plastic wing nut is on the front of the box, if you fancy topping it up yourself.

You've popped the passenger side driveshaft out of the gearbox!

Oh yeah definitely much hard with one wheel on the ground, but with both off the ground you still have to push down on the lower arm a bit. Have on all the ones i've worked on anyway.

Still does it with both wheels off the ground.

Chances are the wheels were already fooked though. Usually posh forged wheels or magnesium ones that you need to be careful with.

Yeah to get the powder to stick to the metal by static, but then they are put in a oven to effectively melt the plastic powder.

Are you fighting the anti-roll bar? It's usually the case. Need to get someone to stand on the hub or something to lever it down.

Depending what the wheels are made out of the baking process for powercoating can weaken the wheels quite badly...

Just make sure you torque it all down properly now ? And then recheck.

Crank pulley ?

Cool. Must be a tension issue then.

Carl meant did you lock the pulley's themselves not just using the horshoe tool? This thing on the left

May be worth checking if the procedure is the same with a keyway'd crank pulley...

It's been a while since I looked at the workshop manual, but I'm sure you leave the pulley nuts loose by a full turn or so and also the tensioner only nipped up to 8nm not it's full 25nm while you spin it round to even out the belt. The pulley nuts may want to tighten as you spin and also keep...

Did you even out the tension on the belt first with the pulleys loose? @bloke

Lower section still looks cloudy, more sanding needed.

ARP rod bolts.

Mine are all anthracite too. Keep the stickers on ?

Black insides? That must be a new thing!

Get some Gyeon Rim sealant on them!

Abbie Eaton, she did last year but not this year. Chris Harris is again though.

Yeah will be alright.

They'll hold some heat on track ?

Pretty sure you can, i've not seen any dedicated tools just for the 250.

Plastigauge them and see if they are in tolerance.

Facebook ?

Jordan Beets I think, used to sell them a lot last year. Was slightly cheaper than Ben too. He's on about doing it again in talks with suppliers. I've not heard anything about them being stopped. Probably a similar rumour to the Dunlop DZ03G being no longer made, they're still readily available.

I ran them for 2 or 3 years, very good all round tyre.