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Amazing daily driver!

No i don't use slicks i have the DZ03G and then Toyo R1R for wet. You'll be able to get the Dunlop slicks used from some of the Mini Challenge teams, they use the 185/580/15 slicks in one of their classes.

Erm.... yeah i think so. You need each cylinder that you're testing at TDC though, so 1 and 4 will be at TDC together and then 2 and 3. Also need to stop the engine turning over by locking the crank, usually do this in gear if it were still in the car. You can then listen for where the air is...

Leakdown test is like a reverse compression test where you use compressor to pump air into the sparkplug hole and it measures air loss. Requires a bit more than a compression test, but it does give you a better idea of the condition.

You're not meant to, but it's never enforced.

Do a leakdown test because even if you have a cylinder which has a leaking valve, it will still continue to build pressure.

If you want the best, go for slicks. If not slicks then Dunlop Direzza DZ03G.

Don't tell me you were trying to undo the isofix bolts by their Torx head, instead of the hex head?

Yeah if you have the airbag module for it.

Yeah they are interchangeable. I think the wire lengths are the same on the 182.

Definitely half a job by the sound of it. OP, get them to do it again and remove/fit new bleed nipples. They should be able to get them out with stud extractors and heat.

Needs bleeding via the caliper bleed nipples really. It's all well and good getting air out of just the lines, but if it's in the caliper too, you're never going to do it without using the nipples.

Silver or white

Was this the one for sale for £750?

Autosmart Hazsafe is decent. 5L of it will do around 50 1L pump spray mixes at 1:10

Sounds like the pump to me then with it not starting after priming several times and also struggling for fuel at 6000rpm by the sounds of it.

Lower gearbox support aka the dogbone mount?

Yeah, Wet Coat is brilliant.

As well as claying i'd suggest an iron fallout remover and also a tar remover. You might not see it on black, but it'll be there. I quite like the Gyeon stuff myself, but it's all similar really.

This is primed.

Prime the pad properly, which means not just 3-4 blobs of polish. You need to have a thin even coverage of polish over the entire pad. Once it's primed, then you only need 3-4 blobs of polish per panel area.

Are you sure that's all true. Surely if you have bucket seat with harnesses then you don't require airbags and if they are not there then they can't be tested.

I've had various parts off them, not engines though. I'd recommend a cambelt change at least if you do go for a used engine though and probably a compression test to be on the safe side.

Could possibly be the fuel pump on its way out, but it's not that common really.

I would have guessed injectors from what you've said, but you've replaced them. Brand new ones were they?

Be cheaper if it was the sump though 😂

This is where i got my clamps from. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271326260811

Well the rear to centre section you can use a Mikalor clamp like i did and for the manifold to cat you need the genuine renault fitting kit...

Which bit is it blowing from, centre section? I used a Mikalor clamp on mine. 63-68mm

Torque is mega on that graph! I'd expect it to be another 20-30bhp on top of that now the boost leak is fixed.