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The valves are also unshrouded a bit more than the 1*2, but it’s a minimal amount. Every little helps though.
Yeah that’s got to tell you something hasn’t it. No one changes things for no reason, and it’s also worth noting, Renault were at the time of the 197/200 involved in f1. Some of the...
197 head has a better combustion chamber design and also the inlet ports are in a different position. They make bigger power significantly easier when they’ve been accompanied by the correct mods.
I made 230bhp using R3 maxi internals, mildly ported 197 head and the 197 inlet.
Show me a 1*2...
3 things.
1) it’s quite not quiet.
2) I have my moments, but usually the quickest thing I have is my temper.
3) I honestly couldn’t give a f**k that you’ve got no mortgage mate. I don’t even know how or why the whole mortgage thing came about either, I just joined in on the banter. Lol! You...
There’s lots of things that need to be factored in as well mate. There’s a transition of around 7% (iirc) taper from bellmouth to inlet port/valve head, so trying to accommodate that in a longer runner would mean 4 bellmouths that would be impossible to package.
Also the ideal inlet tract...
Well that’s a bit rude isn’t it! I can turn the language off when needed! 😂 Annabelle is 4, and I’ve still not sworn in front of her. My tongue however has taken some huge bites in that time. 😂😂😂👍🏻
Every time I get killed with a Mac 10 or dmr now, I just say ‘talentless wanker’. Because that’s all they are.
Me and Harry ran into a duo last night that had just got their loadout. I was on the Krig 6 that you pick up in the game (great gun tbf!) and Harry only had a sniper and got done by...
You need someone to press the clutch whilst you look in the hole where the clutch fork boot is. Just pop it out so you can see in there. Get the other person to press the clutch pedal down and watch to see if the input shaft slows down. It won’t stop completely, but it should be obvious that...
Push the box a bit more mate and see if you get any issues. See if it brings back any confidence in the shift itself. Sometimes when the engine and box are mounted solid, they can feel strange - I didn’t like how mine felt on the pms shifter compared to the yanoo tbf. Can’t explain why either...
I can’t remember if I replaced 1st/2nd synchros or if they we’re swapped out tbf, but I go off how they feel when the mainshaft is on the bench when checking their operation. If they don’t feel right at that point, in the bin they go.
@Louis is it notchy in all gears? Or just 1st/2nd? What oil...
God knows mate! I certainly don’t understand it either. It’s like when every man and dog were rolling with that shotgun.
Don’t get me wrong, some of the lads using it genuinely had skills, but the rest were just amoebas with f**k all skill other than, run in and blast the room in the hope they...
That was for crownwheels mate.
Best bet is put a bellhousing bolt in, then use a lever bar (screwdriver) to counteract the flywheel moving when you torque it up. 😁
Not sure why they chose that location for a bulkhead power connector as it’s liable to get a direct earth off the ex mani in a front end impact. The lhd servo mounting position is definitely the better place as it’s relatively protected.
Looks a pretty good spec shell though tbf mate!
Yeah I’d just replace them with koni top adjustables. I had mine revalved to suit different rear spring rates and it cost similar money from memory.
If it was me I’d bang the konis on and run them at full stiff. Very simple and effective on track.