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I’m afraid they’re not easy to strip and they’re expensive if they are available mate.

That’s a box strip down to fix that mate

2 possible places for it to leak like that. Passenger shaft boot as already said, or, there’s a hole in the diff casing from where it’s had a broken tooth off the diff internal gears. I’ve seen the latter a f**k load of times now.

I’ll have a look later and confirm mate

My psn is very original - it’s the same as my username on here if anyone wants to add me lol

Better combustion chamber design and inlet port positioning. If this build was done using a mk3 head, I’d say it would be heading towards 270bhp.

Absolutely 100% not mate.

Yes mate

Well it’s been a while since I updated this, and that’s because not much has been happening tbh. Finalising the spec has taken up a bit of time along with gaining the all important camshaft specs, as they’re a custom grind. I’ve got a few boxes full of catcam gear in preparation for the...

I had similar issues with my mk2 when it had been in at the body shop with the battery off. It was as if it needed to re-learn the key/immobiliser. All I did was to lock it and then unlock it on the remote fob. After that, I put the key in the ignition and turned it on, but I didn’t turn the...

That’s it yeah.

Nope, no reason at all. Don’t replace just the seal though. Do the bushes as well. They wear and allow the seal to leak as the selector shaft elongates the seal due to excessive play.

The benefit would be that with independent rears it allows you to run a softer spring rate and a separate rear arb. But you’d then need either a custom rear arb, or better still, a blade rear arb to allow adjustability. But, then you’re into research and development just for the arb. No such...

You need to be a paid member to post for sale ads. Thanks.

Yep! It went like a stabbed rat too!

Yeah I’d heard about the CSOC side of things before tbh mate. Assuming they’re both Facebook groups then? I know CSOC is obviously lol

I just need to clarify here that Andy Greer was NOT admin for the club. He was admin for his traders page though, and he could remove the negative posts on there.

There’s no real way to test hydraulic lifters mate. Did you put them in a vice and squash all the oil out of them? You would’ve been better off buying a new set of INA lifters and putting them in tbh.

Best way to do it is fit the one off a 172/182. It’s smaller than the 197 item, so lighter, but also has the all important vibration damper built into it. You’ll feel a bit of an improvement in how it revs. It’s the exact same thing that was fitted to the mk3 cup race cars.

Bang a fake taxi sticker on it and make sure you’ve got a camera pointing at the back seat - you never know your luck mate! In all seriousness though, you’re better off buying a 172/182.

I can supply and fit Quaife’s. Ask Alex. 😉

I’ll measure up that one I’ve got here mate, just keep harassing me otherwise I’ll forget. Lol

Nah you don’t need that tbh. It’s only there for the crank sensor on a formula engine as they don’t run the flywheel on those engines.

Nice work mate! The crank pulley attachment is a smaller pulley as well from memory, so you’ll need that to spin the oil pump at the correct speed.

Majority of people go for catcams mate.

Welcome to the forum mate!

Yeah exactly the same way mate.

Nah you have to be a bit clever with the keyed crank pulley mate. It’s the same theory as if you set them up on vernier pulleys though.

Check the return spring on the underside of the gearbox mate. Be surprised if this isn’t the cause tbh. They wear through and make gear selection awkward.

Yeah I’ll sort it mate. Oil pick up pipe was the last one rsport had, and I’ve got it. Lol