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Oil pick up pipe is missing and there’s a anodised connecting piece that joins the oil pump to the sump pan and oil pick up pipe. Oil filter housing is missing too. That’s where the pipe from the pump goes into.

Everyone I’ve done, I’ve ALWAYS turned the belt anti clockwise to get the tension on the belt properly. Then locked the pulleys up and tightened everything up. Never had an issue.

Take a picture of everything you’ve got mate and I’ll confirm. The oil pick up pipe isn’t supplied as part of their kit, and it’s not a simple item to make! No longer available either, so a royal pita to sort. I was lucky enough to get one.

There’s vital bits missing with the Titan kit. I know because I’ve got one for a race engine build here.

Ah ok, I see!

It’s very unusual for a clearance to get tighter on a used engine. I’d be re-shimming it for definite.

Go with the 48’s then. The 45’s will restrict it.

What cams you going to be running? Any head work done?

Yeah leave the standard flywheel alone.

Out of interest, how much did you pay mate? I’ve ordered the full kit for my f31 as well, but won’t be fitting the stickers or rear boot spoiler.

That looks epic mate!

Search for Gummi Pflege. It’ll sort your sticky door seals.

Lol! Well fair play mate! I’ve seen some pretty hard launches with xdrive, and never seen a great deal of wheelspin, so if yours has drifted, fair f***s! Mines a 330d touring mate. There’s pics in my Clio thread tbh, so just click on my username and click on the link in there. It’s just a...

I’m not gonna lie mate, I absolutely love my 30d. By far the best car I’ve ever owned.

35’s are quicker, but not by a huge amount. Heavier on fuel and also xdrive, so no drifting possible. Other than that not much in it.

Afraid not mate!

Right is the pad free in the caliper pad carrier? If it’s not, grind off the edges of the pad so it has some up and down movement in the carrier. You want around 1-2mm of clearance. Other than that it could only be a master cylinder/abs issue. Regards the pads running all the way to the...

I consistently see over 46mpg in mine on my daily commute and I’ve seen over 55mpg on a run down to Bournemouth. Faults - not many tbh. Egr cooler will potentially leak internally if it’s not been replaced as part of the recall. But, you’ll most likely find it’s replaced under goodwill if it...

If you’re buying it and planning on keeping it as an investment, then it could potentially put buyers/collectors off it. Unless of course there are valid and documented reasons for the engine change. There are 3 different f4r variants as well: F4r 730 - ph1 F4r 736 - ph2 172 F4r 738 - ph2 182...

You know I’d look after you anyway. 😉

When we putting a diff in it then? 😂

Pretty sure they’re m10x100 that I use mate.

Is your gearbox the original ph1 box? If so you’ll need to find the final drive ratio for the jc5 089 mate. It’s slightly taller than the 129/130 final drive.

@bashracing had a spreadsheet as well mate.

I would imagine that the values for the gears are the ratios mate? But I could be wrong.

Yeah but I had all the biggest bits of the setup like the pump and cooler already in stock, so it made perfect sense in my mind to fit it on the cup. 😂

It was a separate part to strengthen that part of the wishbone from the extra leverage. Worth pointing out though that the cup racers didn’t run the extra castor wishbones like you find on the 172 cup/182’s. The castor was taken car of by offsetting the mounting bushes, so the wishbone sat...

I did indeed do a gearbox oil cooler on my cup. Used the oil drain and fill plugs, BUT the oil drain does then become the closest item to the ground and requires a sump guard to cover and protect it. That’s what I custom made for mine. I used a thermostatic switch on the gearbox casing to...

Get redline mtl over the Renault stuff. Trust me, it’s the best oil you could ever put in the box.

It’s unsprung weight though - the true enemy of handling.