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@SKIDDERWOLF I'm local to you if you want the leak fixing properly. I'm only in Lichfield.

They don't work. The only way to fix that leak properly is to open the box and replace the shaft bushes and the seal. The bushes wear and allow the shaft to move around rather than just up and down. This opens the seal enough to allow oil to pass through.

They won't have done mate, trust me. It'll just be a box swap by a bell end who doesn't know any better. Lol!

Only if you change the crownwheel and pinion. Which means a mainshaft strip down as the pinion gear is part of the mainshaft.

Just elongate the bolt holes with the most meat around them. It wouldn't be ideal, but I've seen it done before without any issues.

Lol I didn't think you were mate tbf.

The preference is to get them done by someone who has experience of the f4r and the correct tools mate. If you have correct paperwork it will stand you in good stead when/if you decide to sell the car as you've got proof of the belts being done

He will be along shortly no doubt mate as I've tagged him in the post. He should be able to give you an idea.

I've been undercharging people then!!

@Daniel has a mate who does them, but he's down in Bristol area. I don't think you'll find anyone else other than Mick @ diamond motors tbh, although there's meant to be a few garages in the Brum area.

Erm, I bedded mine in by driving the car normally and doing no harsh braking for a few journeys to get a small amount of material transfer. I then went straight into 2x 120mph to walking pace stops one after the other. This is on ds1.11's that are fitted to my AG 200. Brakes are always s**t...

Unfortunately I ain't Tesco's and neither are quaife.

A 9ltr 5 cylinder diesel that the steering wheel attendant continued driving for 30+ miles as he chose to ignore a 'small knock'. Flol. What a bell end!

Not a bad effort, but I've seen worse! 😂

Too right! Nowt wrong with going against the grain!

You're better off getting pro race 3's if you want that design and 7j. I doubt you'll notice any difference between a 6j or a 7j though.

205/50 15's on a 6.5j rim. 195's on a 6j rim will be the maximum you can go though.

They all lose torque mate. But the rs2 gives a massive increase in low end torque (where you need it!!) which is what helps to make them so driveable on the road.

I made this to cover everything on mine - brake lines and reservoir included.

They give off a lot of heat as you would expect, but they also cool down pretty quickly as well tbf. Mine used to be cool enough to touch within 5-10 mins.

Yeah definitely mate

@BoostedSi fcs again? I need to see if I'm working that weekend first, but if I'm not I'll be going again I think.

Lol! It ain't that heavy on fuel!! Flol! That's brilliant!! What an utter bell end!

I'll have a look and see if I'm working then. Yeah I only did the 15 min sessions last year, but no one was being an aggressive bell end. I'd do the 2hrs straight if I didn't need fuel. Lol

@Djw John when is it? I went last year and tempted to track the 200 again this year as the etiquette was actually good!

Well you can press the synchro rings on too much yes, but I strongly doubt that's your problem mate.

More a case of it's a Jc5 and one of its many 'quirks'. f**king things.

Well the one I had mate, had to be opened back up again. I found nothing wrong with it internally, put the lid back on and it selected all gears perfectly fine.

I've had one do this to me before. Take the end cover off and upload a pic. I need to be able to see the selector shafts.

Thrust angle is what's applied to steering geometry to counteract camber of the road etc, and keep the car in a straight line.