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Main gains are midrange mate with a slight increase to top end. They just seem to breath that little bit easier if you get me?

Grp n cam timing is optimised for the original inlet really.

EFA.

This subject has been, and will continue to be done to death. The fact of the matter is that altering the scrub radius too much does have adverse effects on handling. A 10mm spacer on the fronts will be fine as it'll still be within an acceptable range.

Wasn't my place to share. The reality is that the pms manifold only really works well on highly tuned n/a engines. That's when it comes into its own.

Peak hp means f**k all if it doesn't drive right. I know how well grp n timing drives.

Take it from me, grp n and be happy. I sometimes wish I'd just left mine with the grp n timing and not gone all out like I did with the engine. However, I built my engine to prove a point.

It's part of it mate yeah. Biggest issue you'll come up against is the crank in the 736 is shite for high rpm work. Block needs checking for trueness of journals as well - line bore if necessary. Everything also needs to be balanced as well.

No point unless you're f**king the rs2 off and also carrying out the necessary to stop it spinning the centre main. To get n/a hp requires £'s. Lots of 'em.

I can't tell you if they will clatter the valves either as I don't think anyone's done it with grp n cam timing. Only option then is to go to 197/200 cams as well as they definitely don't touch.

It'll just move the power band up really. That's all that usually comes from upping the cr. May give some small hp and lbft increases as well though.

@Chambers_RS I've still got it...... want me to upload it?

Yeah they do. A mates just ordered one for his 140i and it was over £2k supplied but that includes the oil.

Yeah it is mate.

The diffs for these are well over £2k! Lol! They're also not that easy to swap over as you need a special tool to remove the propshaft.

Those exhausts are proper loud when the valves open, but they do sound good! Get the diff for it now. :wink:

Sorry I don't have them anymore, but @Typhoon was/is hosting them.

I've also ran ds2500's in the rear and noticed an improvement in the braking effort on my old cup.

Yeah 260 is possible and relatively easily tbf. You will need £££'s though. You'll need to rev it to way past 8k though, so we are talking 8500+. This will mean steel crank and rods obviously, along with a solid lifter top end. The block will start to twist at these rpm's/power outputs, so...

The larger hubs would be there for strength mate as the diesel would generate a lot more torque. The ones from a 2.2 will work just fine mate, as I bought a pair for myself moons ago. I can't remember where I found the information out from, but it was definitely on here. I *think* the main...

That one is a 1.8, so it won't have the cup racer hubs. The 2.2 is the one you want, but I can't remember the exact dimensions off the top of my head.

Yeah you need to roll the car forward and backward to settle everything unless you have turnplates mate. The tyres create friction and stop everything giving you the correct reading until you release it.

The only place I'd take a car to be aligned at is a motorsport company who know what they're doing. The likes of ats etc, don't really have a clue about the equipment as they don't get trained on it properly! You've got 20minutes toe out there, which for some is too much. I personally liked it...

Oh ffs.

Still not enough plenum volume or space for the air to flow properly around the bell mouths.

Only advice I can offer is work in minutes so I don't need to translate your readings from degrees to minutes! Lol!! Also, not sure if you did or not, make sure the string is in the centre of the wheel. You can use the centre cap then to set the distances up easier. Regards the thrust angle...

Yeah all the time mate, amongst many other cars!

Fuckin stinks.

I used dragons breath with great success. That was on an especially hanging set of mk5 golf rims.