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@DCELEC 182 you'll only really notice the gripper when your accelerating hard out of the corners as it'll give you a slightly better performance vs the Quaife, but it's only very minor. If the last tenth of a second counts then you need a gripper. I can supply a gripper with the adapter plate...

I've moved one and deleted the other thread mate. Seek and ye shall find regards the tie rods mate. :wink: http://www.cliosport.net/threads/possible-cheaper-inner-track-rod.675576/ The majority of information you'll need should be in that thread. :up:

Done.

The 4 ports at the bottom of the column can be filled with silicone sealant mate. You'll be fine to join the pipes on the rack with rubber hose as well. It's no longer under any pressure you see.

Which bits are you blanking off mate? The ones near where the column bolts on? If so, just fill them with sealant mate.

Remember that your not trying to increase the roll stiffness by upping the spring rates mate. You still need some compliance in the suspension. My advice would be reduce the rear toe/add some toe out in the mix if your wanting oversteer tbh. I'm currently on 450 fronts and 475 rears. Fronts...

Progress looks good mate! Spring rate wise - 450's all round and see what you think. You may need to up the fronts to 500's but it's personal preference.

To highlight your comments and then in theory bring it to the op's attention. Does that cause you a problem? It appears that it's rattled you for some reason?

Agreed. But my point still stands. It was more for the op's benefit.

I'd be soaking the Ast top mounts in a penetrating fluid (as in immersed) over at least 24hrs. They'll come undone then.

Assuming that's not just a generic image of course.

All the best with that! Lol! I'll stick to stripping them down I think. It's certainly the easiest way that I can see to do them and remain trouble free.

Anything is possible mate. Costs are usually the killer in these scenarios though. I will not fit wossners for example, so that means a more expensive piston. Building reliability costs. Fact.

You know me Tony, always looking at stuff! Lol! Got some interesting things in the pipeline. :cool: Yeah you fit them through where the selector shaft sits mate. The shaft has to come out. No other way unfortunately. This is what the forums all about to me! Finding issues like this and helping...

The extra costs come from the necessity to remove the gearbox and then it needing to be stripped down to replace the seal mate. But, I'm pretty much 100% confident this will rectify the issue. That TND b****cks, I'm not so confident in.

No mate. Only a belt off job if you fit cams at the same time.

Your issue will come from how your going to remove the bushes mate.

Get it looked at and see if the bolt fix sorts the job out. If it doesn't then you know it's time to factor in a rocker cover reseal. If it's not howling out you'll be fine for a good while yet mate.

You'll be fine mate. If it had pulled the threads, you'd know! They're quite common for this, so you should be fine with just sealing the bolt. It won't do any damage as it is mate unless your losing that much oil your putting in s**t loads on a daily basis! Don't worry about the other bits...

First thing, don't tighten it up anymore! They're only m6 bolts into a aluminium head and you'll pull the threads of your not careful. Secondly, remove the inlet and the bolts that are where the weeping is coming from. Apply some silicone sealant to the bolt and refit it. Tighten it up to the...

Lol. My cups a cat c and has a substantially better spec than that! My cup must be worth £20k at least in that case. 🙈😂

So, with the jc5 suffering from a leaky selector shaft seal, I've been looking very closely at what can be done to stop it and also a reason as to why it leaks. I'm pretty confident that I've now found out the reason why! It's a box strip to fix it properly though unfortunately. Here's a...

Get some heat shrink on the vvt plug mate. That way it'll stop any water ingress into the plug/loom itself.

Afraid not, but if it's coming via the ecu then I'd imagine no more than 5v tbh.

The PIN numbers at the ecu plug are as follows: P7, P13, P17, P61, P62 and P82. Also worth checking for corrosion in the white plug in the fuse/relay box on the n/s mate.

What are you trying to find mate? I can tell you the pin out numbers for the throttle body if you want?

It's because you have to start off with such a large piece of material on the jc5 atb. Shite design tbh.

When I had an rs2 I was going to use the Clio 16v scuttle induction to feed my v6 airbox. Shame I got rid before I had a chance to try it out, as I think the results would've been noticeable.

Today yes, tomorrow something else! Lol

Any induction that comes from the scuttle panel will always work really well! It's a low pressure area - hence why all cars have the heater air inlet in the scuttle panel. No placebo there mate. :up: