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Ph1 cable operated throttle body has a different bolt pattern to the fbw throttle. That's where the issue has come from.

This is why once the R3 maxi parts became available I jumped on them. It just made sense as it gave me the opportunity to get the power level I'd like without the need to mess and faff with the trial and error route. Yes it cost, but it's also proven. I'm pretty sure R3 maxi evo ran in the...

They need to be male plugs mate.

NGK R or NGK R9 is the option whatever grade they are mate. Yeah if you convert to solid lifter top end it'll mean misery. Lol! I'll convert to the R3 maxi evo setup if I go that route. You could always buy the catcams kit that locks the cams in place so you can dial them in properly with a...

R3 maxi's ran oe plugs and the maxi evo ran some fancy platinum ones. I'll be running the oe items in mine unless they prove to be an issue.

Your a bad lad Fraser. Lol!

The 4 holes in the rack near where the column need to be blanked off, but tbh you could quite easily just fill them with silicone sealant. They are totally redundant once the fluid supply is taken away. I've used some proper blanking plugs in mine, but silicone sealant is what I'd do if I was...

I think I just filled the originals with chemical metal tbh mate.

75 years ago some extremely brave and courageous men took to the air to defend the UK skies. Never forget them folks. Just likes for this please. :up:

Without looking I couldn't be sure mate. Yeah that's it mate. One of the longacre ones. Yeah your missing something mate. Lol! You need the eBay box of tricks to control when the motor gets the power fed through it to give the assistance.

Yeah one of the first mate. I took the feed from my bulkhead power connector as my battery is under the passenger seat. I can't remember the gauge of the wire now tbh it's been that long. From memory it was 6 or 8awg, but don't quote me on that

No it doesn't connect up to the rear beam mate.

Car builder solutions or vehicle wiring products mate. That's where I've seen them before.

You'll need a toggle switch and a relay mate. Can't remember if you can get a relay that does single sweep and permanent, or if you would need 2 separate ones for each function though. There's a lot of pre made fuse/relay boards available now, so all you have to do is put the wires to the...

I ordered mine from camskill and got 4 bottles for almost the price of 3 from opie.

Yeah it's cheaper than the redline mtl that I've suggested too. I've used the mtl before in a stressed gearbox and it worked really well so I've stuck with it. I'll be running it in my jc5.

What oil did you opt for? Having the additive as a last resort is a better idea.

Be careful that the friction modifier doesn't attack the brass synchros mate. Some of its designed to only run in dog boxes.

@Dan@SJM

It's the same as the one I bought mate.

This is a 2.5" v band flange and they do a 3" one as well. I think for £20 it represents good vfm. http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=121588554686&globalID=EBAY-GB

V band mate. That's what I've got on my centre section. It splits easier than a sleeve joint should the need arise and it also requires no gasket. Win win in my eyes. Downsides are welding it in if you can't do it yourself.

Looking good Neil! Almost looks effortless to drive fast as well. :up:

Yeah that rings a bell tbh now you've said it. I'll find out next week and post it in here.

The engine revs will drop off faster as there's less inertia to keep it spinning and it'll probably use a bit more fuel. Nothing horrendous though.

Yes he does mate. Your bonnet looks as comedy as mine does Fraser! Lol!

Standard gear oil will be fine. As would Fuchs syntran. I'm using redline mtl in mine as it holds up very well to abuse.

So it's only a days work then at most to get those niggles sorted mate!

I wasn't expecting to have any wifi tbh mate!

Lol!