Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
i usually take it to abp motorsport but as the cable had snapped i needed a garage in towing distance
the one i picked didnt have a clue on the valver they fitted it on the pedal wrongly and tried telling me my clutch needed replacing
i have got another cable i might put on
adi
think it has its own batteries in it so could still go off in theory, the new max flower clio haynes manual has a bit in it about changing an airbag steering wheel which makes it sound easy
but in the proper haynes it ses scary stuff like your gonna die a horrible death and ur knob will fall...
erm at a guess under the glovebox or in the engine bay id have to have a look
but ive not had a proper look yet but the only feed out of the switch is for the relay so if the dash light is on the switch and relay must be working, if the dash light isnt on the relay or switch is suspect
matt...
right then so you think the weber alpha TB package would be a good first investment then
then save bit more cash and decide on final spec from there defo cams and head work need to look into profile e.t.c, maybe chuck in a set of forged pistons balancing and blueprinting that can be done when...
dunno what to do yet dont think i can afford the turbo, 2.0 conv is in reach or do i stick with 1.8
i thought from the previous threads on TBs you needed smaller valves to make it more drivable and more power, would the weber alpha package not make a good differance in performance then on its...
i didnt do the cable but the garage i took it to didnt inspire confidence as they had it 2 days and i had to take them a haynes manual because they couldnt get it on the pedal, they secured it with 1 zip-tie as well so i know it moves about
so im not sure where its supposed to go now when i...
yeh but its two completely differant things, throttle body noise is just pure sex but then again you cant beat the turbo noise and that feeling when it winds up and puts you back in your seat
dump valve and wastegate chatter mmmmmm
sorry carried away lol
adi
that sounds mental heh heh i like,
but i would like to keep it quite driveable, but as its not my daily driver i dont do lots of miles in it it doesnt matter too much, but it has to be quite reliable as when i go out in it i like to cane it,
adi
BRUN has a 1.4 rt and that doesnt make bad power from the mods hes done he has a hp induction kit and chip and he said its makes a good differance on the 1.4 with an exhaust system
it depends wether u want to spend the money but a exhaust chip and ind kit isnt ever going to make big power but...
right i think im gonna have to change the gearbox soon as there is some bearing noise, so i might as well stick a new clutch in
so if the engines coming out to fit the new box and clutch i might as well get other stuff done at same time
my engines done 60k nearly should i fit megane bottom...
filled up with gear oil now the box is better but the bearing noise is still there
just left it stood for ages with the engine running and its still hard to get in gear i have noticed though that the biting point has changed from cold so i think the clutch cable is the culprit behind that...
i think the best one are the pressed in vents from the likes of cool louvres that actually look like they assist in performance and arnt too OTT
most vents only look good on the cars they were meant for i.e imprezza scoops only look good on imprezzas
stick on cossie vents are a definately...
ive got the mongoose which is very well made and has a nice sound and is also quite popular on the clio 16v
problems are tryin to stop it from rattling on the suspension especially if lowered, you have to mess with it quite a lot and have the tailpipe sticking out quite a bit. mine rattled for...
ive got the mongoose which is very well made and has a nice sound and is also quite popular on the clio 16v
problems are tryin to stop it from rattling on the suspension especially if lowered, you have to mess with it quite a lot and have the tailpipe sticking out quite a bit. mine rattled for...
i was thinkin it mite hav been the clutch and ive had a new clutch cable not so long ago but ive just checked the gearbox oil and i cant feel any in the hole so it might be that
i hope i wont have damaged anything with it being run low on oil cos there is a slight bearing noise that you can...
i did a search about this and it seems quite a common prob im going to change the gearbox oil with fully synthetic and see if that helps
ive mainly come to the conclusion that the clio gearbox is shat and you have to be a bit rough with it
adi
after being in traffic for ages in my valver and the car being really hot its really difficult to get in gear
as soon as it cools down its ok again do i need new gearbox oil or summat or is my gearbox about to drop out
adi
they only work really on turbo cars so would work on duncs car
dont cats stop fuel from getting past? so in that case its no good
dunno about melting bumper, probably after a bit, they do sell you a fire extinguisher with it though
adi
yeh its gonna be pretty even, if you get beat though its probably modded they have about the same 0-60 but in my experience the valver pulls away after 3rd gear
sayin that i pulled a cars length on one a few weeks back he he, they do vary in power though
adi
oh yeah 128 at wheels is loads there around 100-110 standard, if it was a standard willy then its probably true unless the 128 is a figure he drempt up one night
adi