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Thanks scott! Yeah not as much as you'd think though tbh! I'll do a full spec list with the power output later mate. On a session atm with a bottle of jäger. Lol! Cheers mate! As above, I'll do a spec list tomorrow. R3 mate! You may well be right about the best bits as well! Lol! The...

Just thought I'd post a few pics of my engine build that's almost ready for my cup. Enjoy! :cool:

You'll be fine to run it on normal power steering fluid mate. Dexron 2 is what Renault recommend I think.

The residual oil that gets left after draining the system will lubricate the seals in the rack, but it doesn't matter if the rack is dry tbh. The only bit that needs lubrication is the rack and pinion end (drivers side). Grease it up with high temp grease (wheel bearing grease is ideal) and away...

I wouldn't and haven't done it that way mate. I blanked off those 4 pipes on mine and made up a new transfer pipe for the middle of the rack. You could do as @Arran_ has suggested and use the original pipes and either bend and re-flare the pipe or just cut them and join together with some rubber...

Lol! Fair enough mate.

Why have you looped it there? That's just fluid feed and return into the rack.

No mate not used as a daily. More like a 6 monthly. Lol! The issue on mine only ever showed itself when going for full lock. Never had a problem with the steering locking up as you could always overcome it.

No mate just no where for the air pressure to go as I don't run fluid in the rack. The original pipes act as a transfer pipe for the fluid to give assistance to the steering. There's a seal inside the rack to stop the fluid going on to both faces and counteracting each other. I've done away with...

Mine used to be like that as well but it kept pressurising and stopping the rack from going to full lock.

You need m12x1 fittings with a hole to accept 3/16 copper pipe. Piece of piss to make up the pipe as well. Any garage should be able to flare the ends for you for next to nothing.

Flol! I'm in a bit of luck then! Mines a year younger than me!

Lol! Young at heart though mate!

Essentially they're a motorsport component mate, so they will never be a fit and forget item in my opinion.

Oh yeah! Forgot yours was a sprinter as well! Sorry mate. I took one of these on as a job for a mate. Learnt the hard way. Never again. Ever. Not even for 1k, or 50k for that matter!!

Do you use the car all year round? If you do, salt off the roads will f**k them up in no time at all. I used to work on gritters and trust me, after one season any area of untreated exposed metal was rotting. I'm talking about brand new gritters as well. Best advice is to keep them lubricated...

I hope the sprinter isn't suffering from the black death mate!! If it is, your gonna cry buddy. There's a black tar/sludge that builds up around the injectors and it goes f**king solid mate. You have to chisel the stuff off to get at the injectors. Tbf, they don't normally want to start when...

Green, pink or red gets my vote. Alternatively, 1 green, 1 red, 1 pink and 1 blue!! Considering doing that to my 16's. Lol

Will you be hanging a uniroyal tyre off the cage for a orang-utan to swing from? Lol! Proper climbing frame that! Looks great!

Not really mate no. Match the upper to the lower half but leave the rest. Only my opinion though.

The machined part you can see in that picture is the cylinder head inlet ports mate. They're cnc'd from the factory.

The uj on to the column is hidden by the black rubber seal between the bodyshell and the rack mate. Give it a bit of a rag and all shall be revealed!

Look for somewhere to bolt it on to the block mate. That'll hold it steady then.

Needs a brace on the downpipe imo. Vibrations always travel to the furthest point, hence the nuts coming loose.

The rates of the gaz are quite low compared to the bilsteins then. I'd be saving up and opting for the billies personally.

Drain the oil out the box and stuff some rags in to the gearbox. Offer up the plate and mark the holes. Drill and tap the holes to the correct size. Remove the rag and pray nothing's gone inside the box from drilling and tapping. Refit driveshaft, refill with oil. Job done. You could always...

I personally would say the bilsteins are in a different league compared to the gaz stuff. Their only downside is that they're not damping adjustable. What spring rates are your gaz currently running on?

This has made me smile. I've had a w**k weekend and this has been the one of the only uplifting things I've read. Nice work mate

They're handed so you need to make sure you fit them in the correct corresponding positions mate. If your not sure put a piston in the block to see the positioning. Other than that knock them in dry with no loctite using a drift. Make sure you don't knock them in further than they need to be...

Yes really mate.