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I'll probably manage 4-5 goes, get bored and never go back again! Lol! That seems to be the way with uk tracks unfortunately. Knew i should've fucked off to Aachen to work for scania when I was offered the job! Lol

£25! Excellent vfm!! I may join that when the cup has its new heart. :grinning: It ain't no Nurburgring though. :cry:

I've found us some roads to try in Wales. None of this Evo triangle s**t neither. :tonguewink:

I'll have a look over it tomorrow mate

Yeah that would be fine i would think. The problem you've got is the one way vent valve will allow fuel out in the event of a roll over. I'd get in touch with atl and see what they recommend mate tbh. I bought the 3L collector pot with trap doors in that they do for my tank and they were...

Here's my old setup.

Mine was the non spring type mate. It was almost like it went up when you hit a bump and then the pressure/vapours in the tank held it there! There used to be one available that would would open itself at a certain mb of pressure, but that was just pressure relief rather than roll over...

Run it up the diagonal bar on the cage and then send it out via the bootlid. It's important to get the height on it otherwise the breather won't work right as I'm sure your aware. I'm not keen on those style of breathers either tbh. I had one and the ball kept staying up closing the vent and...

Anyone else think the bloke looks like the hood (baddie) out of thunderbirds??

What's the current engine spec then Russ?

You'll not need any of my spares then mate if it's going there. Yeah appears to be THE place to go! I'll just stick to building my own. Lol

Who you sending it to for a refurb?

@Martin. let me know what you need and I'll have a look. Got selectors and synchros along with a new front and rear casing!

Here you go @Fletchyboy93

Green is the choice of heroes iirc. :tonguewink:

This is why I collect them. Have plenty of spares in stock that way. Lol!

Yeah piece of piss to fit mate. Remove sump, turn engine over to access the relevant bolts and remove old ones. Fit new bolts and torque tighten (has to be done 2 or 3 times to stretch the bolts) once you've done that and all bolts have been replaced and torqued, refit the sump. Job done.

421's, itb's, arp rod bolts and f**k the rest. Good for anything power wise from 210 up to 220 if the engines healthy. Anything else just gets expensive for little gains.

I'll get you the number tomorrow mate

Input shaft front bearing mate. Different bearings in a 130 though to a 129 and I'm not sure they're interchangeable. I've got part numbers if your struggling for the triangular bearing.

Should do. They're the same block mate

Yeah the cup wishbone to hub ball joint is further forward than a ff172 All wishbones are the same length as well mate.

Go check your sills smart arse! Lol

Have a look at the bolt holes on your shock absorbers mate. Measure the distance between the bolt hole and the edge of the flange. Check that they're both the same each side. It seems to be a bit hit and miss with new dampers as to whether the hub mounting holes are drilled to suit cups or ff...

Gen90 for ease of fitment mate. Allows you to retain your original loom but has all the functionality of any of the other ecu's out there.

Mainly the s**t ph1's I imagine mate. Lol! Come on boys! Take the bait!

Yeah tin ones! Lol

That's because it's a ph2! Lol!:smilingimp:

What's your email address buddy? Got the manual.

Your welcome to try mine mate. No problem at all.