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Try Capricorn Automotive mate. They're in Andover. Nikasil is the name that's owned by mahle, the actual process is nickel ceramic coating on the liners. It's not cheap though fella!

There is places in the uk mate that recoat nikasil liners on car blocks. Expensive though and you've got to know where to go.

Mine are located on brackets on the inner wing. I just used long pieces of aerospace grade aluminium.

Martin - fronts are too soft and the bumper brackets are your enemy as others have said. I cut mine off completely and just rely on the plastic clips of the bumper/wing assembly to hold it in place and together. As for the rear, it's potentially your rear bumper touching the tyre or the inner...

I've got a cup turini if your in need mate. It's in grey as well.

Lol @ victor meldrew! :clown: I don't have any issue with anyone wanting to take the easy route either personally and I've posted in loads of threads to point people in the right direction - it's a forum and that's what it's all about imo. I do get frustrated by the same threads being posted up...

I think the main bugbear comes from the inability to use the search function mate. Settings for geo have been covered lots and I've possibly posted in the majority of them as has tony! Lol!

No problem Russ! Lowering the tone is what I do best. It did make me jump the first time he jumped out of the wardrobe though! Lol

Scrubbing front or rear mate?

Don't get so much traffic in rally's though. ;) Lol!

I've seen more engines need new cranks after running acl's than anything mate. It seems in some instances the bearing material is harder than the cranks, but I've seen a fully forged engine with a steel crank fall foul of them too. They may have changed the spec of the material now, but they...

I'll 2nd that. ACL are utter shite

Your mums a liar. And tell your dad to stop jumping out on us in his Spider-Man outfit. ;)

As I'm sure your aware Russ the only reliable way to obtain a real power figure is to run it on an engine dyno. I'm surprised your not aware of the 1 second per lap you gain from the pubtalkbhpfigure though. You'll have to google it as it makes for an interesting read. It comes up under the...

Have a sniff of the oil - gearbox oil has a pretty distinct smell to it mate.

From memory it's about £600-£700. BIGASH will confirm.

Check that the driveshaft collar is not touching the seal. You need some clearance, and looking at the picture your boosted, so the drivetrain will move more than a n/a one. Are you running solid engine/gearbox mounts?

Correct mate.

I thought gaz were coilover rear now? If that's the case, the motion ratio becomes 1:1 not the 2:1 they are from the factory.

That white thing is there just to protect the seal in its packaging mate. You want to be tapping it on the outermost edges when you fit it as well mate.

It's about 1.5hrs in terms strip, replace the selector seal, reseal the casing and rebuild for reference.

I had my roof vent open all day at oulton. Even managed to get a fly in my eye whilst giving lesley some passenger laps! One in a million chance that, so I was feeling very special! Lol!

Downside is the noise they generate imo. The popit vents I've got in my front polycarbs are awful! Leave you with tinnitus at every available opportunity.

Keep the roof scoop mate. They're like a f**king greenhouse with polycarbs so you need one in my experience.

SNR are the oem bearing brand mate. From experience they fall apart just as well as a cheaper alternative too. The way to be 100% it's disc runout is remove caliper, refit wheel and watch that the wheel doesn't end up with any runout. That'll prove the bearings not been fitted into a pissed up...

Now that is weird!! Does it do it if you remove the pad carrier?

Just use a couple of pieces of wood mate. Use them between the seal face and the hammer and apply pressure to the opposite side that your hitting. Then it's a case of keep following it round to make sure you hit each bit of the seal to get it in equally. Sorry for the w**k description! It's...

The rear discs are that thin they'll crack before they warp mate. I speak from experience.

Need to know your spring rates mate. Otherwise everything becomes speculation.

What bearings did you fit?