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weld it down - 5 minute job; would be hidden by the plastic cover

been having another look today. i don't now think that it can be TRE related (nod @ ditz); also replaced/greased all four ARB bushes but still have this 'cracking' noise at either lock. i'm tiring of it now and think i'll revisit at a later date. it needs to go up on a ramp or over a pit...

cheaper than ECP, too.

i'd read that a de-cat is noisy but, as chris106gti, was thinking more of the tailpipe:) besides, i've actually decided not to de-cat for the time being as i've subsequently learnt that my insurer would like an extra £70 if i fit anything that increases the power output. realnumber1 has...

don't know if i should have done or not but i've made subframes for seats out of mild steel square section tubing/angle iron before now - no problems, but then i didn't ever crash the car they were fitted to! tbh, can't see decent tubing not being strong enough

not yet had the time to fiddle further - i will post once i have though:)

would it be OK if i PM'd you as i think i've already managed to go over my 5 post quota today (!?)

something else i've thought about is buying one of the bigger-brand systems (i've had a Piper before and it was excellent - £270 for the Clio cat-back), cutting off the tail pipe and replacing it - but without having one to offer up, i've no way of knowing if this could be done successfully and...

just checked with the cheapest of the three stealth suppliers i've heard mentioned on here - they can supply the back box on its own but it's still the best part of £200, so it's not even as if i could build my own system cheaply using other sections from cheaper sources. bugger. don't...

i know there are loads of these exhaust questions but i'm losing the will, sifting through them all. just got a quick question.. is there such a thing as a 'cheap' stainless stealth system? the few i've read about appear to be custom made for some of the tuners on here and (sorry) they seem...

the bearings i had from ECP were Febi-Bilstein and the rubbers were Sasic and did have a Renault diamond on them. rubbers were about £20ea and the bearings, £10. what are the £15 kits like? or is that for just a bearing/just a rubber?

it's just the bitumen/tar from recently resurfaced roads - gets thrown along the bottom of the sides of the car. you can wipe it off with petrol if you don't fancy spending £5 on 325ml of Autoglym's tar remover

made a proper hash of explaining what i meant with this and thought i'd best correct myself - it would have been simpler to point out that there are both long-nosed and short-nosed unions and that, if you use a long-nosed one when you need a short-nosed, you can find that the flare butts up...

Re: HAND BREAK HELP failing that, have someone weld it down - beer tokens:)

i think it depends upon the application; i've had problems before with the tip/bevel (beyond the threads) being too long, not seating properly and not engaging much of the thread (not ideal with brakes) - apart from in the thread and thread length, unions do vary at the tip beyond the thread...

it's not just the thread you need to worry about - you need to be sure it has the same length/bevel to the tip (beyond the threads), too. good luck in sorting it today - always annoying when something breaks on a Sunday!

Re: HAND BREAK HELP is there enough room around the area underneath the car where the nut lives to be fitting a bigger bolt/nut/washer combo - or is it a box section?

some of the handier High St parts suppliers keep unions and make up pipes; sounds as though the car's off the road until you can fix it anyway, so you could take the tip of the pipe off, remove the union, and take it with you to whoever you can find who stocks them. might still be lucky at this...

:D i'm a bit anal about looking after my cars:o . hopefully you can buy the buffers separately - guess they're a Renault only job if you can

here you go: got to say that i don't think they'll stay looking like that for long one of the old mount, showing the separate buffers:

should be able to post you one at some point tomorrow. the buffers are mounted on a bracket and are separate to the main mount - if you could buy the buffers/bracket separately, that'd sort it.

can you buy the buffers seperately or do they only come with a new top mount? i changed all of my mounts yesterday and did notice that the new buffers fill the new top mount, whereas the old ones were quite worn and allowed the engine to be rocked back and forth a fair old bit

i'd be surprised if they didn't; that's why the movement's there? they seem to have very little range of movement compared with other TREs i've worked on - i was just wondering if this could be a possible cause of some of the knocking noises people report. perhaps not, but i've thought of a...

have a look to see if either of the cables have snapped.

OMP's exhausts do have a reputation for rusting

not sure - it might well still raise the boot floor. it's not really that bad though. you could try removing one of your wheels and putting it in the boot to check it out

there seem to be a few threads about people with knocking front suspension at the moment and i'm also trying to trace a knock on mine. i've already renewed the top mounts and have been looking at the rest of it today - it all feels fine to me. one thing i have spotted, though, concerns the...

mine failed as a previous owner had run the 'box dry (they leak). i knew something was up shortly after buying the car as i gave it a thorough going over and noticed that the diff seemed noisy whilst spinning the wheel as the front end was jacked up (i thought it was the diff at the time...

been doing all of mine this afternoon; the top mount is a doddle but the two N/S gearbox mounts are a pain (especially the lower rubber block - had to take the mounting bracket off to do it).

sorry, i was just thinking that if you're looking for a quick resolution, that might be your best bet. the main problem with fixing anything like this is in diagnosing it; does it make the noise when running the rack from lock to lock whilst the car is stationary? if it does, have someone do...