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Not great timing but my gearbox appears to have failed today and I’m hoping for a little advice.
I was reversing at the time and the car just cut out. I noticed that the clock had reset itself and wonder if there was an electrical interruption as it failed.
Anyway, it’s now stuck in gear...
you might be able to resurrect it by very carefully lifting the piston dust seal to one side whilst you lubricate the piston - wind the piston in, carefully pump it out again using the footbrake and repeat until the piston is free.
the rears do very little work in normal driving and can...
was thinking that too - probably what i'd do if it were a dedicated track/toy and it had to be a Clio. even if all you did was strip it out, it'd likely lap a fair bit quicker than a Cup and you'd probably save yourself the best part of a couple of grand (?) which you could keep aside for...
no harm in asking although there's a danger they'll over-state the problem in an attempt to sell you a system
loose baffles shouldn't be a problem for a couple of months and there'll only be a danger of it falling off if any of the hangers and/or pipe/bracket welds have failed - all visible...
this is all you need to do
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there should be a groove cut in the rim of the piston which you can lay a screw driver across and wind the piston back in to the caliper
i think someone did post about a fortnight ago with a similar problem
if the bar was missing, perhaps the securing pin had been missing for a while and had allowed the bar to work loose? some motorfactors sell fitting kits (springs, bar and pin) so you might be able to get away without having...
does sound as though you've a leak somewhere. if you're able to have a look underneath it yourself, it might show up as black sooty deposits around the area of the leak. otherwise, just ask someone to blip the throttle whilst you decide whereabouts it's coming from. you might also be able to...
sniffer test (as someone has already suggested) would probably be a good starting point - it will test for the presence of combustion gasses in the coolant. could also try a compression test.
have you got oil in the coolant expansion tank or coolant on the oil dipstick?
yes - it's more likely to be termed 'mechanical breakdown insurance' though - you've almost certainly got a claim with HG failure. ring them tomorrow!
that's really sh*tty luck if it is the HG - hope you can sort it out without it costing too much
it depends upon the application and i've no idea how Clios are affected but those applications that are affected tend to be so due to number of factors such as unsprung weight increases, lower profile tyres detract from ride quality and bump absorption etc, suspension geometry can be affected...
doesn't it act as a toggle switch whilst the dipped headlamps are on but as a flasher when the you've got no lights or just the sidelights on?
if you think about it, the only way around this would be to rig a seperate switch for the full beam, as you wouldn't ever be able to turn full beam on...
that's the conclusion i've arrived at too - although i preferred Optimax to V-Power for some reason.
BP Ultimate definitely seems the strongest of the three - just a shame it's expensive and difficult to find (round these parts anyway).
do you need one for track work or are you thinking more of 'styling'?
they're essential in a dedicated track car but are not (generally) considered a good idea in a road car or, indeed, a road car that is occasionally used on track due to the fact that, unless you're wearing a helmet at all...
i'm also interested in (eventually) doing this - the lamps will need replacing for driving units though. they make a massive difference to lighting if you get it right.