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I *think* the 5 spoke 172 alloys are ET 48.5 if that's of any use? Cup turinis are et38.5 so I'd have said your probably better off on 10mm spacers mate. Guarantees extra clearance then as well.

The only news I have is that the parts are currently with my machinist. At the moment my car is off the road for the winter months and BIGASH has still got some work to do on his before the testing is ready to take place. Not be long though now. There will also be a steering arm adjuster kit...

Lol! The devil is in the detail with my car mate! I like to do stuff that's not quite so noticeable, but tbh I'd be always forgetting to update the thread!

Is that the 'pro motorsport' way then?! Pmsl!

The bearings are a different dimension on all the mk2 laguna hubs mate if that's what your meaning? Not sure if all mk1 bearings are the size either. All I know is what I posted earlier was what worked for the cup racer hubs I've got. Not selling the RCA kit as yet mate. Need to carry out the...

2.0 8 valve and 2.2 diesel mk1 laguna mate.

Bleed nipples overtightened is my guess Tony. Seen it before on aluminium calipers and steel bleed nipples.

How is your arsehole now anyway? Because you clearly got butt fucked when this car was 'built' the first time around! :o

With the dial wound fully anti clockwise you get no assistance at all mate. Wound fully clockwise it gives maximum assistance. It's a piece of cake to wire in mate as well.

I agree with this entirely! That's one of the reasons I'm giving the epas a try. I like the feel of it so far and free's up a nice bit of space in the engine bay for other things.

I did do at one point in time, but I can't remember now tbh! Ah the joys of getting older.

This bolt can be accessed easily from inside the engine bay for reference. Just pull the rubber boot back and your straight in!

I've got a dci column, ecu and one of those box of tricks installed on my cup. Works very well and easy as to fit! I highly recommend it tbh. BIGASH is going to be running it on his race car as well - he's the one who put me on to it in the first place! Not so sure I'd have it on a switch...

The headwork on the Ashford Motorsport f4r costs in the region of £2.5k for reference............. Also the only thing that remains original f4r engine, is the block and head casting. That's it. Everything else is custom made to their spec, and Ilmor have had a hand in the development of it...

Ah fair enough mate. Let me know if there is anything coming up though if you wouldn't mind? I'm trying to be ex motor trade myself atm! Lol

Any jobs going in the maintenance dept???? Very interested!

What are bombardier like to work for out of interest? Money any good? Yeah I know where that is! I'm just up the road from morrisons.

Yes mate I also live in swad! I think I saw your car one night coming off the industrial estate at Barton under needwood one night as well? Early hours of the morning.

I've seen this car a few times knocking around the Swadlincote area and it always looks nice and tidy! Sounds nice too!

Flol!!!! Brilliant!

Yeah that's the bit I'm on about Swede cup!

Yeah that's the bit I'm on about Swede cup!

Enlighten me then mate. Which bit is, in your opinion 'crap'?

Yeah if the valve is closed as in 'up' you will get full effort to the rear brakes. The arm should have a spring that attaches to the it and the body/chassis. Mines actually seized in the up position and combined with ds2500's it stops incredibly well! Lol It doesn't cause any lock ups in...

Your maths is correct Fred! It changes a small amount dependant on wheel size though.

I've got a vecta file with the 172 cup badges on so I can get them made as stickers. Just got to take it to the local sign shop and get them done.

If you want some really good turn in, you want toe out on the rear as well. It WILL swap ends stupidly quick if your not ready for it though so you have been warned! You'll find with toe out on the front the steering feels very twitchy as well, so don't be put off by it that's just how it is.

Yeah most anti roll bars are spring steel, but it's a bit of a pita to get them made. Cds tube will work fine. I've used it in another rear beam setup before with good effect

I'll be putting the wideband on it anyway so we shall see I suppose. I'm not entirely sure they can be flashed with a Rs tuner either.

Grinder, hammer (large variety) and a drift will remove the arb inside the rear beam mate. After a bit of abuse of course. Then it's just a case of opening the hole up to accept some larger diameter cds tube, bit of welding to hold it in place and job done. It's all a bit committed though! Lol