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In theory, yes it would come apart there, but it's designed to collapse at that point if your involved in an accident and not to be split mate. Why do you want to split it out of interest?

It's possibly your caliper sliders or the pistons are not retracting properly. Grease the sliders and check the pistons are returning fully. A bit of high temp grease on the piston whilst returning them into the caliper does the world of good. If they both check out ok it'll be the handbrake...

Flol!

197 Cup racer roof vent!!! Absolutely love it!

I'm still interested in having a set off you mate.

It all depends on who you speak to at R-sport kenny as one of the guys who works there is a real pita to deal with tbh! And that's possibly the kindest word I'll say of him!!

I took mine from one of the wires going into the white plug for the wiper stalk. Power probed it to see 12volts come and disappear when ignition on/off, spliced into it using a heat shrink crimp connector and job done. It's either a white wire with a yellow trace running down it, or its the...

5-10 minutes of toe out will give you the desired turn in, but at the expense of straight line stability. But tbh, it's not horrendous anyway with that amount of toe out. It's only really noticeable on bumpy roads. Factory figures are toe out as well iirc.

​Yes mate that will be fine. Have you got the ecu with it as well??

Very nice Steven! Be interesting to see that manifold when it's all together!

Tbh mate, no I don't find it a stretch and I've got size 7-8 dwarf feet! Lol! Heel n toe is a pita on the standard setup I find as well. I altered the position of the accelerator pedal and I've made a larger pedal plate to put on it as well but not got round to fitting it just yet.

Yeah I'd be interested mate. I just use grip tape on the floor pan at the minute tbh, but the passenger side could do with some form of a foot rest for the passenger. I run my wiring down the n/s sill. Main loom on the top part and battery cable on the side. Never been knocked by any passengers...

On my cup column you couldn't split the top half from the shaft that connects to the rack. No chance whatsoever if this is what your referring to Swede cup. The top half of a dci column will split and has the bolt your mentioning.

Spoilsport! Lol! The ones I've found are pricey to say the least!

In my youth we used to go for spirited blasts to Skegness from Lincoln and back again - just for something to do at night! Lol! Had some epic runs against gsxr 600's and 750's of that particular era as well along that road! We were all in big hp boost buses which helped out! Unfortunately that...

What are those carbon foot plates costing out of interest?

I've used the earls version of this on fuel lines and it requires a hell of a lot of brute force to get it on all the way! The larger the bore, the easier it goes on though. I used the hot water method and the hairdryer to assist, but it still takes effort. Lots.

I think they're m10x1 thread if that's of any use. Tweeks should sell them I'd have thought.

yeah the rotary switch can turn it fully off pete. You can't hear a murmur off it either. It's quite a strange sensation when you have full assistance on the steering whilst pushing the car around!

They're just held in with the plastic clips mate.

I used fk ones mate. They're the bolt to hub ones as well that I've used.

No mate. Never felt the need to bother personally.

I run 20mm hubcentric spacers on the front of mine. Slight rubbing, but my car is very low.

Had a beer have we tony?! Flol!

Thats the drivers side of the dash phil in that ^^^ picture.

I know a guy who's made the brackets for radial mount calipers to be fitted to the e36's. It's the m division Motorsport calipers from the e46 that are used and the brackets adapted accordingly to suit the e36. All proper cnc machined and made from the correct grade of material. I think the...

I removed that bracket/clip assembly to help 'ease' it behind the dash! There's not much left of my dash support bar anyway as I removed a lot of it to clear the cage and save some extra weight.

I mounted my ecu for the epas between the dash support bars and the bulkhead. It's to the right of the steering column. It's a tight fit, but its held secure by the bar and some zip ties. Sounds rough, but looks almost like it was designed to go there.

Or alternatively, use an m6 nut, put the terminal in the vice along with said nut, tighten vice and hey presto! Easy terminal crimping. It may sound a bit ghetto, but its a very effective solution. Especially if your in the s**t!

Get the cage that holds the varley or the odyssey battery at the same time. I'm sure with a small amount of fabrication work you could get it in there and secure. It may even lay flat on top of the g/box mount bracket. Drill a few extra holes to secure it and your laughing.