Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
I can't believe your dissing me and rich for our sticker fitting skills! Lol! I notice you've not mentioned that it helped you to your win either! Last time I come and support you hunter! Lol! :rasp:
Ah not to terrible then! A few of my mates race in the Nippon challenge as well! Ones got an ex jap integra touring car and the others building a seriously trick rx8.
Yeah definitely mate, be good to catch up.
I don't think I will ever love another track as much as the nordschleife mate tbh! I agree though, the spa circuit is awesome! The view from ea rouge back down to the pit area is amazing. Seeing the f1 cars come through there flat out was epic as well!
Try some toe out on the rear if you really want it to turn in better!! I have run shims on the back of mine to put a very small amount of toe out on mine and the results speak for themselves! You look like some kind of drift hero as well! Lol!
From the factory they run quite a lot of toe in...
Kw's are easy to setup phil. Full stiff at the rear and about 13 clicks on the fronts. The standard v2 setup at the rear however, needs stiffer springs and the dampers re valving for a lot of track use. That's what I did on mine.
Other than that they are excellent!
All you need to give the control box is a ignition feed and a earth. The motor has a permanent feed direct from the battery which must be fused and you need some decent sized cable. Ideally the same size as what is already on the motor, but NO smaller! All it will do is overload the wire and set...
The compensators/bias valves can be a bit of a pita to bleed up as well I've found. Try to zip tie it in the fully closed position and bleed it again. This is assuming your on the cup compensator valve of course.
The only other thing I can think of is if the rod on a 182 servo isn't as long as...
Make sure you definitely buy a complete column and lower shaft mate!! You can't split the original non epas column lower shaft. I made this mistake but luckily for me I found a lower shaft on eBay for £10!
Epas column splits in 2 btw, so you put the lower half in first, then the top half...
No need to use a corsa c one mate. You can use the Clio dci one which bolts straight in ( I've installed it in my car - so I 100% know) and you can buy a control box for it off eBay.
Saves having to fabricate mounts to fit the corsa c column.
Your better off getting a windscreen fitter to fit them for you mate. I had mine fitted professionally and I've never had any issues with them coming loose or leaking. The sealant they use is awesome!
I'm on a 20mm spacer on the fronts only, and I'm on the standard offset turinis of et38.5 mate. My 15" turinis are et35, but they're only 6.5j so doubt it'll make a huge difference to how far they will stick out.
I was gonna put my fk's on the lathe at work and machine off 3mm, but I cba!
The centre bore is what the wheel actually sits on mate and transfers the load into the hub. You want the fit to be as close as possible so as it centralises the wheel on the hub as well. If its not, you will suffer with vibrations and the wheel bolts will be forever coming loose.
The bolts are...